Admiral Daala

I also am working on my Admiral Daala flight suit. I mean I’m in the Essential New Reader as Daala- as a body not face but hey!

(Hint, take a photo on an overcast day and you to can achieve this level of apparent disdain!)

So I obviously do have the face down pat for my favourite version of her flight suit (first of these three):

My hair is back to being this long (yay for being on a biologic and DMARD that is not chemo any more!) but it is dark pink. I could tint to burgundy but I needed a new Satine wig anyway and the quality of lace fronts has just improved.

I managed to grab some stretch drill from my local fabric store, reasonably randomly- I always look for a match- and as it’s a mechanical cotton I can dye it slightly darker to match the above. Today is fabric washing day as it is still sunny.

The boots are not entirely in line with boots for the legions but I do have my equestrian boots that are just a tiny bit too short for the uniform version. Just no stacked heel.

I’m not looking forward to embroidering the patch but I have done cogs before so it’s not really a big deal.

The piping is interesting. So is where the seams do not extend past the pockets. I know I can do this as the legs do fill out. Also POCKETS!!! My new phone is too big for a pouch so this way I can carry that and some eye drops, som Lucas’ Paw Paw ointment, and sticky plasters and maybe even a tiny snack/hydration pack.

I have flat elastic to make my own “piping” as it needs to stretch a little with the suit and it’s not really raised in a circular detail. I checked existing bias tape and there isn’t really anything dark enough.

I do have a test pattern that fits and is made from a grey cotton rich mechanical stretch. It is stretchier vertically so I’ll have to add a couple of inches to the waist.

Back to Mon Mothma

Crinkly fabric of a width to make the Rogue One tunic? I don’t think it is one width. The depth of the folds was striking when I went looking for my own fabric and it’s at least two widths if not more (crinkled cotton is about 105-110cm wide). On the upside these are not straight rectangles- which is pretty logical when one looks at the drape. So I should have more than enough. I do need to sort out lining.

Following the crinkles and how they interact with the hems of both garments show just how deep the curve is and can help work out the width in total. The skirt being shaped is great, it means there is less bulk at the waist and hips so that the tunic can flow nicely from shoulder to hem.

Compare this tunic hem to the original and it’s a very similar shape but the Rogue one version is fuller and the fabric has deeper crinkles.

And the full tunic image shows the folds of the tucks pleats is very deep indeed.

Also interesting is the chain is actual chain.

It’s a fantastic break for costumers as this is a fairly standard kind of chain, and is a nice easy ~10mm wide and there are 12mm chains out there for taller people and 9mm for shorter. It’s called a “rope twist” and is often sold on ebay as a hip hop style chain. 2 30″ chains should be enough to include the wrap around the shoulder.

Of interest are her shoes. There is a definitely platform but it even looks like there is a heel. By which I mean we can’t see the shoe extend under the arch which means it has a separate heel.

sooo.. Freya is back on the cards

I recently shared some of my art on instagram (@thefrockchick) of my own variations on The Snow Queen so it’s a fantastic coincidence that today I finally found some non-woven faux suede which is exactly what I need to recreate this gown which has also been on my must do list.

This gown was originally made from leather. It was dyed black and the skin side silver leafed and the reverse painted with a mica pigment that is a rich blue.

I can’t really afford that amount of leather not the weight (it’s about 35kg-40kg from what I remember) and the material I have is already over 10kg.

I worked out the pattern of the scales over a year ago but didn’t really attempt to work out actual amounts of “leather” needed. I should have enough if I am really careful and possibly not have quite an epic train. It might be a matter of a half meter short.

I do know how to treat the material to get the silver and blue sides (I’ll use “Misty Blue” Pearlx pigments, and probably resolene to bond it to the material) I just really need to get my template perfect to be able to make a scale pattern.

For the silver side I will probably also use pigments but maybe in a urethane paint system- I have gold and I think the silver will work especially if I also powder the urethane down so that there are particles that are embedded and some that are tacked down on one side.

But I love this costume because it uses both the familiar and unfamiliar. Woven leather and shot organza, a very loose gauze, and faceted beads.

It’s also basically shaped strips which is a challenge for patterning as you need to make sure the grain is aligned to the centre of each panel. So I might do a paper template, divide that and then snip and tape into new shapes.

I have to make some changes to my day to day activities if I want to make this at all, let alone soonish. So I’ll have to set myself some boundaries and stick with them.

Padme Progress

Taken from instagram posts 🙂

The bodice- so many gathers! It’s a mix of hand sewing and machining. Just need to add in the crossover support and then I can actually sew the hood and cape and sleeves in.

Skirt progress. Two hours for the gathers and beads, and yet I am keen to keep going today 🙂

 

padme cutting

Finally got the last pieces of the bodice cut 🙂

This was exciting because yes it’s two layers even for these pieces- it looks really weird as a single layer.

But I knew there was some clever use of stretch and basically was able to show it 🙂

This is a piece from the left side.  The curve at the upper left is for the armscye, the gathers are directional to the bust point.

This is the actual shape.

This is what I love about garments like these, they require drafting and draping skills and to not just see fabric as something that is linear 🙂

 

worth the difficulty

I managed to get a one month subscription to Autodesk Remake (not easy with geo-locking and my country not being specified, and then I wasn’t sure where in the app to put my code (hint- cog-> welcome screen.) but so worth it! I’ll do this again later in the year as I have so much clay and now have a good idea of what the scan will capture.

With 186 photos:

vs the 50 before:

So tomorrow I’ll attempt the full 250 in the backyard (currently a bit swampy- thanks big storms) as this is a marked improvement! Also I’ll possibly even be able to take the horns off my head cast and try them in total isolation as well as get my head cast done.

I may also see if I can get my hands photographed 🙂

I am so wishing I was able to get the texture detail to work, it might make the model easier to capture in fact.

wedding gown musings

Sierra Boggess shared this image yesterday and can you see what has made me so excited? The fabric is thin. Well fairly thin- the flash and angle allows us to see her skin across the arm while the fabric looks more opaque closer to the armscye (where the fabric turns and follows the curve of her shoulder.) The sleeves are either unlined or lined with something very fine while the bodice is flat lined in a solid white.

I tend to double line my bodices and either not line or line my sleeves in a very thin material too.

Also if you follow the lines of the fabric on her sleeve you can see how very shallow the sleeve head is. This is both era appropriate and theatre appropriate as it means you can get your arms over your head. Notice the small wrinkles between shoulder and armscye? Yep. Modern patterns try to eliminate that by using a very tall sleeve head and that is what gives us limited arm range.

The effort to make a garment look good on the stand makes for a garment that is far less practical.

Anyway, just my thought process when I look at new/different images of the same garment 🙂 It’s all about the fit.

 

Oh and there is probably a bit of ease in the top of the sleeve head, I use three rows of stitches to do this rather than two as it does makes the fine gathers almost invisible.

Happy birthday to @andrewlloydwebber!!!!! So grateful you are on this planet!!!

A post shared by Sierra Boggess (@officialsierraboggess) on

 

Barnes is here!!

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/

Henderson Auckland!!!

!!!!!!! I can’t really justify 27kg of the stuff but they have the S foam 130 flex!

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/s-foam-130-flex-foam-1392

This is what I used for my super squishy and very flexible Togruta headpieces 🙂

It’s a bit tricky when you don’t have a perfect mold that includes headcast but this time I do sort of! This will make the foam fill in the space perfectly 🙂 I can keep my molds!!!

 

Also this is not what I used but could be ideal for paint:

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/sc92-single-component-coating-1291

All the latex. For real this time!

I am ready to wear the daggy clothing with all the latex marks today, also to then work on my Cleves frock indoors, or tool the rest of Ahsoka’s armour. Whichever second activity is chosen will be down to working in the room or away from any potential to bump into the latex.

Yes I have done so.

Yes you can readily see this effect on the carpet out there.

They are carpet tiles. Well continuous lengths but the same stuff. So… will try to avoid any slumping anyway and also to cunningly cut the foam to allow for easy fitting once made up.

Mon Mothma seams

Mothma leapt to the top of the sewing queue due to realising just how complex her robes are. in terms of construction 🙂

Thanks to several sources but mainly Kay Dee:

These photos clearly show the position and shape of the seams. Of note is the shallow princess seam (it is not very curvy) and the seam of the outer sleeve as well as the seam that starts on the arm and turns into a raglan shape. It is to be inferred that it needs to end somewhat near the neck based on how stable the shoulder region is.

 

The hemming needs to happen asap, the weight of the excess fabric is one issue but the main reason is that the fabric clings to carpet!