willemyne is a print maker

So I had to back up my assertion that Willemyne is a name found pre-1600. And to that end I had to get a bit creative in finding very clear absolute examples.

So my lovely herald sent this piece of lovely info with my name submission:

https://www.openarch.nl/show.php?archive=elo&identifier=8d50fe87-13b7-76c7-11c6-70ed31b517ac

See that on the right? Yeah baby, a scanned register! The link to the source site is in that little square with the orange coloured logo. We’ll get back to that.

The Open Arch site sadly doesn’t let you search by first name. So I went through some of my other resources, found the full name and searched. Some came up with the same spelling, some came up with a different (I suspect due to different source material.) So I got a bit stuck. None came up with a scanned document.

Back to that little logo. Those Leiden archives are able to be searched by first name! So I managed to pick up four (four!!!!) instances of Willemyne in writing pre-1600. I’d love to be able to go through other archives as easily but most do not have this scanned function.


1) NH Ondertrouw D. maart 1597 – mei 1602., archiefnummer 1004, Nederlands Hervormd Ondertrouw (1575-1795), inventarisnummer 4, blad D – 010v

2) NH Ondertrouw B. april 1586 – november 1591., archiefnummer 1004, Nederlands Hervormd Ondertrouw (1575-1795), inventarisnummer 2, blad B – 040v

3) NH Ondertrouw B. april 1586 – november 1591., archiefnummer 1004, Nederlands Hervormd Ondertrouw (1575-1795), inventarisnummer 2, blad B – 157v

4) NH Ondertrouw A. 1575 – maart 1586., archiefnummer 1004, Nederlands Hervormd Ondertrouw (1575-1795), inventarisnummer1, blad A – 144v

I mean how cool is that?? The name only appears as witnesses in this region, so it may just be the records don’t go back far enough or the very older ones haven’t yet been scanned.

 

This I found in September and I cannot work out where. So this name is common enough to be able to find in hand written examples!

 

So then I sort of cheated and just searched for “willemyne” archief which usually brings up a source in an archive so I can then look further in that source.

 

So I got to www.gahetna.nl (which is a website of the National Archives of The Netherlands in cooperation with the Society for the National Archives and Spaarnestad Photo.) I can’t really justify paying for a scan of the pages this name appears in but as there are scans I trust the transcription.

Reg. no. 270

270 1541 juli 30.

Het Hof van Holland oorkondt, dat Daniel Suys met als gemachtigde zijn zwager mr. Lievin Anthonis Blocxz, voogd over zijn echtgenote Willemyne van Adrichem en over haar zuster Cornelia van Adrichem, als gedaagde veroordeeld is in weerwil van het recht van aesdom tot inventarisering en scheiding van de nagelaten goederen van zijn zuster Aechte Suys te Wyck up Zee ten behoeve van Adriane Hermansdochter, weduwe van Pieter van Adrichum, en hun dochter Claerken van Adrichum, met als voogd Willem van Dam, secretaris.

Oorspr. (Inv. no. 984) met het geschonden zegel in rode was van het Hof van Holland.

And then in Het Rijksarchief in België 

Raad van Brabant. Processen van de adel 1ste reeks.

DUT: Inventaris van het archief van de Raad van Brabant. Processen van de adel. 1511-1650

  • Processen van de Adel
    • III. Dossiers zonder merkbaar verband
      • 478Willemyne Colegheensen c. François van Zande (van de Zande). Nalatenschap van een leengoed. Proces voor het Leenhof van Bergen-op-Zoom. 1555.1 omslag

Aanvraaginstructie [ archiefdienst – inventaris – archiefbestanddeel ]:
Rijksarchief te Anderlecht / Archives de l’Etat à Anderlecht – I 62 – 478

Vorige (nr 62) | Volgende (nr 61)

andFamiliearchief. Algemeen

Inventaris van de verzameling Familiearchief / M. Nuyttens.

  • Inventaris van de verzameling Familiearchief
    • 4Akte verleden voor schepenen van het Brugse Vrije, waarbij Pieter Waghe en zijn vrouw Willemyne Bylkin, poorters van Brugge, aan Maria Hancheman, weduwe van Gheeraert Van Volden, poorteres van Brugge, de helft van een partij grond verkopen, gelegen in het ambacht en de parochie Oostkerke in de watering van Romboutswerve, 1586.1 katern

Archiefvormers

Aanvraaginstructie [ archiefdienst – inventaris – archiefbestanddeel ]:
Rijksarchief te Brugge – INV 50 – 4

Vorige (nr 3) | Volgende (nr 5)

And i found this a few months back and forgot how- but I think just brute searching “willemyne” archeif.

https://dspace.library.uu.nl/bitstream/1874/215503/1/THKB_1997-02_4.pdf

(willemyne 6)
https://www.archieven.nl/nl/zoeken?miadt=236&mizig=210&miview=inv2&milang=nl&micols=1&mires=0&micode=356&mizk_alle=willemyne

Datering:
1497 October 9
NB:
Bedoeld is vrouwe Willemyne, erfdochter van Naaldwijk, Capelle en Wateringen, gehuwd met Jan, burggraaf van Montfoort.
Organisatie: Noord-Hollands Archief

(This spelling is the same across several documents but the surname is not. Formalised spelling is not really in place at this point. I’ve found various spellings of clothing items in a document written in one go, so yes. It’s very interesting 🙂 )

But then it gets better!!! Willemyne is the first name of two women involved in printing in the same time and place!!!! OMG!!!!

1) Willemyne & Pieter van der Keere

http://archaeologiamediaevalis.be/drupal_e/sites/default/files/pdf/AM_35-2012.pdf

wordt met “smettelicke zieckte” waarschijnlijk de pest bedoeld. De tweede bron is een stadrekening uit 1584 waarin het volgende wordt vermeld: “Betaelt Pieter van den Keere ende Willemyne zyne huysvrouwe, ter causen zy den tyt van omtrent XXVIII maenden ende het, by laste van scepenen, metgaders Adriaan …

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_van_den_Keere

Pieter van den Keere (Latin: Peter Kaerius 1571 – c. 1646) was a Dutch engraver, publisher and globe maker.

2) Willemyne and Hans Liefrinck

https://rkd.nl/nl/explore/artists/49950

Explore Hans Liefrinck (I) – Rkd

zoon van de houtsnijder en prentenuitgever Willem Liefrinck (1490?-1542), broer van de drukster en prentenkleurster Mynken (Willemyne) Liefrinck (?-1593) en vader van de houtsnijder en kunstverkoper Hans Liefrinck II; gehuwd met Catherina Cordier. Zie ook. in dit veld vindt u verwijzingen naar een groepsnaam of naar …

(translation)

son of the woodcarver and print publisher Willem Liefrinck (1490? -1542), brother of the printer and printmaker Mynken (Willemyne) Liefrinck (? -1593) and father of the woodcarver and art dealer Hans Liefrinck II; married to Catherina Cordier

And she’s mentioned a few times in this book:
https://archive.org/stream/BibliografiaZaragozanaDelSigloXV/Bibliografia_zaragozana_del_siglo_XV#page/n417/mode/2up/search/willemyne
(use of VV for W, but also by her nickname: Mynken:)
https://archive.org/stream/BibliografiaZaragozanaDelSigloXV/Bibliografia_zaragozana_del_siglo_XV#page/n417/mode/2up/search/mynken

 

There seems to be some query as to whether she coloured the prints or was involved in the printing process. It’s very cool because it’s evidence of a woman in the trade itself not as a seller or owner of a business after a partner has passed.

Anyway. This has been a really fun “detour” that came back to my main interest of putting together my own book of clothing patterns. I’m trying to decide between an Album Amicorum (hand drawn and a single copy) or a printed version.

There are pros and cons of each. I might try for a printed version as it could get me practicing multiple skills. I can sketch really well, and in style. It’s converting those soft lines into very hard lines like a print that I am not so great. This may require learning inkscape again.

 

Side note, I also found documents that were a stark reminder of what a turbulent time this was. And how brutal. Not in the region I actively research (probably down to what has made it to modern research) but in Flemish sources. I didn’t go fully into them but there are a number of Willemyne’s listed which makes it feel a little closer to home, even if technically this is where all my ancestors come from. Well the Netherlands and Germany before that. But my ancestors did not travel much even though some at least were involved in trade (though at least one very close ancestor owned a barge.)

I am talking about lists of witches and their punishment. As I said, very hard to read. Hard also as it obviously reminds me of who else went through equal kinds of punishment and who had very few rights in law.

 

Cotton tulle! Get it while it's there!

I finally have a cape fabric for Elsa that I can easily dye with predictable results! I can’t believe it is available so randomly… Geoff’s Emporium on Lincoln Rd, Henderson has two rolls of about 30m each of off white cotton tulle.

I may have grabbed what I could of the white. There is a little colour variation as I think it was from their older pre-fire stock. But it’s $NZ8/m and about 140cm wide (about 40″ to a metre, about 55″ wide). So if you want some 6m is more than enough for a very generous cape 🙂

They also have a a magnificent wool gabardine. Or satin. I want to say satin but there is just enough definition of the Z wale. But it’s more like a heavy cotton satin with that clear direction of the face. And it’s black. It is magnificent and glorious and I want to make a proper suit out of it and I will as soon as I decide between c1600 Cologne or c1500 Nuernberg. It will both drape beautifully for 1500s and pink well for 1600s. I think Nuernberg as it will be comfortable and I can line it in my maroon silk and be not quite historically accurate Maleficent 😉

Cotton tulle! Get it while it’s there!

I finally have a cape fabric for Elsa that I can easily dye with predictable results! I can’t believe it is available so randomly… Geoff’s Emporium on Lincoln Rd, Henderson has two rolls of about 30m each of off white cotton tulle.

I may have grabbed what I could of the white. There is a little colour variation as I think it was from their older pre-fire stock. But it’s $NZ8/m and about 140cm wide (about 40″ to a metre, about 55″ wide). So if you want some 6m is more than enough for a very generous cape 🙂

They also have a a magnificent wool gabardine. Or satin. I want to say satin but there is just enough definition of the Z wale. But it’s more like a heavy cotton satin with that clear direction of the face. And it’s black. It is magnificent and glorious and I want to make a proper suit out of it and I will as soon as I decide between c1600 Cologne or c1500 Nuernberg. It will both drape beautifully for 1500s and pink well for 1600s. I think Nuernberg as it will be comfortable and I can line it in my maroon silk and be not quite historically accurate Maleficent 😉

Kickstarter! Tailor's pattern books

I know both Marion and Katherine through the German Renaissance Costume group and lj for years and they are both incredible researchers. This is a book I am funding, just need to grab one of the slots!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor

So the first thing you see is a thumbnail of a pattern. This is all you need to know before even the other wordy nerdy stuff (which I have seen snippets of and will be wonderful to have in print!

Have you spotted why it is amazing? Look under the bust. What do you see. If I link you to this:

Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt
Bestandskatalog der Männer- und Frauenkleidung
Studien zu Material, Technik und Geschichte der
Bekleidung im 17. Jahrhundert
Johannes Pietsch

In the appendices there are the patterns he made of the extant garments but also a handful of images from extant tailoring books including:

(page 329) abb. 111: Schnitt eines Frauenwamses aus dem Musterbuch der Schneider von Enns, 1590

(page 324) abb. 92: Schnitt fuer Rock und Mieder einer Braut aus dem Meisterstueckbuch der Schneiderzunft se Swabach, spaetes 16. Jr. So this may the master book Katherine refers to. Btw this has a gored skirt and doublet bodice and a scooped neck bodice and a circle skirt? I can’t read beyond basic lengths “1 1/2 e(squiggle that probably means el) lang”

 

So yes I have been eyeing these original sources for some time but I had no way of getting at them! Couldn’t even back track through this appendix to find where some of the books were even still housed! So Yay! this means I can go forward with my own interpretive book as I have planned for about 6 years now.. okay more like 7.. erm… because I will at last have sources to point people to in my own appendix. At the moment a lot of it is “private emails with K. Barich” so.. yeah 🙂

Ditto with the book based on the journal I have been sifting through 🙂 Might see if I can ILL that. And seriously it was full of gossip, so full of gossip. Local and European wide.

So back on Koeln train baby!

Kickstarter! Tailor’s pattern books

I know both Marion and Katherine through the German Renaissance Costume group and lj for years and they are both incredible researchers. This is a book I am funding, just need to grab one of the slots!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor

So the first thing you see is a thumbnail of a pattern. This is all you need to know before even the other wordy nerdy stuff (which I have seen snippets of and will be wonderful to have in print!

Have you spotted why it is amazing? Look under the bust. What do you see. If I link you to this:

Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt
Bestandskatalog der Männer- und Frauenkleidung
Studien zu Material, Technik und Geschichte der
Bekleidung im 17. Jahrhundert
Johannes Pietsch

In the appendices there are the patterns he made of the extant garments but also a handful of images from extant tailoring books including:

(page 329) abb. 111: Schnitt eines Frauenwamses aus dem Musterbuch der Schneider von Enns, 1590

(page 324) abb. 92: Schnitt fuer Rock und Mieder einer Braut aus dem Meisterstueckbuch der Schneiderzunft se Swabach, spaetes 16. Jr. So this may the master book Katherine refers to. Btw this has a gored skirt and doublet bodice and a scooped neck bodice and a circle skirt? I can’t read beyond basic lengths “1 1/2 e(squiggle that probably means el) lang”

 

So yes I have been eyeing these original sources for some time but I had no way of getting at them! Couldn’t even back track through this appendix to find where some of the books were even still housed! So Yay! this means I can go forward with my own interpretive book as I have planned for about 6 years now.. okay more like 7.. erm… because I will at last have sources to point people to in my own appendix. At the moment a lot of it is “private emails with K. Barich” so.. yeah 🙂

Ditto with the book based on the journal I have been sifting through 🙂 Might see if I can ILL that. And seriously it was full of gossip, so full of gossip. Local and European wide.

So back on Koeln train baby!

I reached back a little further than 5 years 😉 1997-2005- but in reverse… oldest last… and you may be lucky and I may share photos of my really earliest costumes… Grizabella/Griddlebone, “wishing” dress interpretation and Poison Ivy. And maybe All Good Warrior Princesses Go to Heaven (which was actually based on the costume I was going to use for my sportsfighting character.. Neimhaille).

bestofcosplay:

Cleves Blue 1 by ~glittersweet

I’m surprised this got even one note 😉 Seriously, I’m flattered as this is a style that doesn’t really fit in with the modern aesthetic 🙂 It’s accurate, right down to pinned on sleeves (okay that is my conjecture based on woodcuts of the time as well as written documents of the time) and silly cloak hanging from the head.

The cloak is a heuke and it is about 2kg, maybe three (more than five pounds) and is carefully held in place using mainly a little engineering trickery:

Hair is plaited and pinned (bobby pins) around the crown.

A fitted cap (guldhaube) is pinned (sewing pins) to the hair in front and behind the plaits with florists pins.

A shaped cap (sticklechen) is pinned over the cap and pinned also just in front of the plaits. There is a velvet lappet pinned around the front on the underside which adds tension to hold it balanced at the back of the head.

Then the heuke collar is pinned to the fitted cap (guldhaube) and the fabric hangs over the back.

My original stickelchen had pearls and goldtone bezants all over it but the sequins were ruined by a house fire and I have never managed to redo the base frame to fit. The base is buckram and felt steamed to shape.


Ange and I representing the SCA in Auckland. 

NZ Herald Weekend edition, page 5 of the Weekender lift out.

Note to photographers: I always look snooty from that angle if I have to look down the lens. Especially if I ignore the height difference between me and others in frame. I need to stop hunching for others in frame at conventions. Snooty is better than rumpled and bendy 😉