Tag Archives: mantua

18th century musings

Well this has been a tough decision and I’m still not sure.

First is my 100% dino shot taffeta. It’s a really heavy weight incredibly crisp and is such a beautiful shade I can forgive the content. But I usually have a very distinct line between historic and historic inspired.

Second is my black silk. Very heavy, very heavy. Also able to be used front and back.

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Seriously torn as to which to make from it. Other options for the blue is a francaise or 1870s convertable gown.

The black silk can be anything from 16thC on!

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Also my beaded silk? Sigh it really does look fab as a Reinette inspired gown. But I also want to go total fantasy with it and yet it drapes so nicely over hoops.

Also coming soon, a fancier Leia wig tutorial. Also her buns are so much bigger than most costumers realise… I need to do a scale diagram.  But her buns sit on her dress collar.

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They may also get bigger the more sass she expresses.

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And also I am having major issues with the way the lace sits at the crown. I have already done major work on this so I may as well get the sectioning clips out to stitch that down!

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More inspiration! c1700 mantua!

It’s not surprise I am obsessed with the style. I have been for more than a decade but never found a fabric I thought would do the style justice. Well now I do have a fabric! And thanks to an online friend sharing images from her own research that connection was sparked and the final push to actually make one inspired!

Many moons ago a very well respected costumier who creates the most amazing 18thC gowns gave me information on a few mantua especially one of my favourite gowns ever, he shared privately but there is now an official source:

kjole

National Museets Samlinger Online
Kjole med slæb, grøn silke
Beskrivelse
Kjole med slæb. Af grøn silke med broderet guldmønster, antagelig 1740erne. Fra Valdemar Slot, Tåsinge.
(I have a pattern for this)

 

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Victoria and Albert Museum.
Blue silk: Museum no. T.88 to C-1978, early 18thC (note the skirt is essentially a full ruffle from hip height)
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Shrewsbury Museums Service:
Mantua.18th century (1710).(SHYMS: T/1973/6/1). Image sy14188

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National Museum Wales:
Silver embroidered blue damask court mantua (an open fronted gown with an elaborate train), (mix of suggested dates, 1720-1740)
Tredegar Collection

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Date: late 17th century
Culture: British
Medium: wool, metal thread
Credit Line: Rogers Fund, 1933
Accession Number: 33.54a, b
(
I have two patterns for this)
c34d72cb1a92d3ee9a7a03db7d5d59ffMetropolitan Museum of Art: Mantua (note the skirt is a series of reverse flounces!)
Date: ca. 1708
Culture: British
Medium: silk, metal
Credit Line: Purchase, Rogers Fund, Isabel Shults Fund and Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1991
Accession Number: 1991.6.1a, b

Canon 20D Digital Capture

Los Angeles County Museum of Art
Woman’s Mantua with Stomacher and Petticoat
Italy, circa 1700
Costumes; principal attire (entire body)
Silk satin with gold- and silver-metallic thread embroidery
a) Dress: Center back length: 56 in. (142.2 cm); b) Petticoat: Center front length: 35 in. (88.9 cm)
Costume Council Fund (M.88.39a-c)

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Collections of the Lincoln Museums:
Usher Gallery, The Lincolnshire mantua
(
There is a pattern to a similar garment in the first PDF, also a skirt layout and layout of the train. All three documents are available to download and are incredibly fascinating!)

 

I have another favourite from the Museum of London but there is no link online.

I will share a thumbnail though and hopefully in time the museum will have this on their site:

mantuamol

Museum of London
Dress 1720-30 (no. 2) front view, with added STOMACHER, 1720-1730 (no.39)
(I have a pattern for this)

This does not appear to in their collections, I will update as soon as I know more. I much prefer to link to the collections rather than take from a book, but I can at least, hopefully, generate interest in this garment!)

 

So I have a fantastic start, a nice range of extant garments to look at trends and to decide on particular style.

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1720 Tailor's manual

I have posted this before but wanted to make sure that this was really put out there so to speak :)

Geometria y trazas By Juan Albayzeta, 1720.

So a lot of this is religious apparel, but oh what do we see?

f75-78? Ropa de levantar para muger

Looks like a…

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1720 Tailor’s manual

I have posted this before but wanted to make sure that this was really put out there so to speak :)

Geometria y trazas By Juan Albayzeta, 1720.

So a lot of this is religious apparel, but oh what do we see?

f75-78? Ropa de levantar para muger

Looks like a…

View Post

Leave a Comment

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