Yeah. Swiss suits me. Sigh. I do love it but I soon got interested in those crazy Cleves/Cologne styles which though hugely unflattering are super fun. And mental.
Some more early garb. Saxon but heavily influenced by Anne of Cleves. A symphny of circles ๐
sunburst and mina
Meanwhile I have a grumpy cat sitting on the table and he is demanding attention.
No hedgehog tonight ๐ The bunny was over yesterday too ๐ I’m hoping the neighbours didn’t move after all. They were nice and quiet and hey.. have a bunny that roams free and safely in a street full of cats! Seriously there are two next door and three on the other side and another three on their other side…
And one final note to myself; don’t leave mugs of tea on the window pane. They are high and I can’t see inside and when that really funky smell starts up it’s hard to figure out where it comes from.
sunburst taking in
November 15th, 2010, 08:03 pm
I did start to adjust the Sunburst skirt. But I am not happy at how the pencil is showing through.
So I have enough left over to recut the skirt front panels and I can use bits of the current skirt fronts for the bodice.
I’m not going to use a crepe for some of the bodice panels like in the original but then I’m using pearls rather than faceted beads for the clouds anyway (the original used cut beads the later copy uses pearls). I’m looking forward to working on this one too ๐
The cutwork is daunting but I have a handle on it, this is one of the reasons I want to machine sew around the pattern- it’ll help stabilise the fabric. I have my hair canvas petticoat to neaten at the top and a cotton twill petticoat. And bustle to make. Oh and sew up my corset as well ๐
sunburst adjustments
November 14th, 2010, 11:05 pm
So I did manage to bust out the Sunburst skirt and sew it up enough to start sewing over the pattern. But there are two thick blue pencil marking the width of one of the skirts which is narroer than what I went with. That said I can most easily rectify this but moving the side panels in to that line, redraw the pattern on the side gores.
And I just got side tracked from my hunt for the two Sunburst dresses in my reference art and tex> Latishhistoric> latevicrefs folder… So much yumminess saved from ebay and auction sites. And even more in reference art and text> Latishhistoric> 1870s-1880sbustlenfbustle
Found her ๐ Yes the narrower skirt is right for this dress so I’ll do exactly that; take the skirt in at the front and add the pattern to the side gores ๐ Now to sort those folders out.
sunburst tracing
June 13th, 2009, 05:19 pm
Well I spent the afternoon drawing on fabric but I do finally have my beading layout transfered to the back of the fabric ๐ The dark blue vertical line is where the original seam was. I shifted it out a little as it just balanced a little better that way on me.
The two dresses have seams in different places anyway. It is however a good 10cm narrower each side than I originally cut. And the reason it looks like a cotton is because the satin lost so much body when washed (which it needed in order to be decoloured) that I had to back it with a fusible fabric.
I used solidot or whatever it is called. A much better option than most but still a little annoying ๐
The pattern is off centre but balanced on the whole. I shall probably add a little more in the way of clouds near the bottom right hem.
So tonight I shall hunt out my pieces of netting and see what is suitable and start sewing the various lines. I may be lucky and not have to do the clouds as well as the rays of sun if the fabric is at all transparent when working it on the frame. Oh and here is the bargain frame I got: I think I will cut off the top (above where the frame sits) and use the wood to create a pocket for the sides to sit in so I can easily break it down to slide in beside my wardrobe ๐ But hopefully the next photo will show beading happening!
sunburst scaling
June 12th, 2009, 11:38 pm
Fantasticย 
ย Thanks to an online tutorial I now have a grid for my skirt patternย ย Thanks to myself it was tweaked to be a useful grid pattern for scalingย 
ย Thanks also to myself I have a scanned scaled image of my skirt pattern and can now apply a grid to the back of the skirt panels and transfer the design!
I will probably head to the local shops in the morning and get some chalk pencils to do this.
A set of three so I can use the pink for the grid and blue for the design. And then very soon after that sew the design with my machine.
I may have to stitch the net to the back of the sun bursts before sewing the pearls in place. Just logistically speaking. And then do the pearling then beading and then clip the satin away from the net.
And before then iโll find some yellow fabric for the interlining to show through the net.
sunburst- pink version
http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1770/05-007716_a
Sadly the photo does it so little justice, you need the Taschen book to really appreciate how stunning the trimming actually is.
Noooooo!!!!
I just realised something: http://www.kci.or.jp/exhibitions/index_e.html Japonism in Fashion, New Zealand Jul. -Oct. 2003, at the Museum of New Zealand, Te papa Tongarewa, Wellington Dec. 2003-Mar. 2004, at the Christchurch Art Gallery, Te Puna O Waiwhetu, Christchurch.
I know I wanted to go and now I really wish I had. I think “my” worth gown would have been in it ๐ Well Worth’s copy of his own gown but in pale pink rather than pale yellow and with c1893 huge sleeves ๐ But the embroidery was the same.
pout.
oooh: http://www.wacoal.jp/c/kci/2009/02/dresstudyvol552009.html
DRESSTUDY Vol. 55 (Spring 2009)ใ38p. 500 yen +S&H fee: 200yenใป
CONTENTS LECTURE: Luxury in the Western Culture by Koichi KABAYAMA
Bourgeois Luxury in Seventeenth-Century Germany: A Costume Collection in the Hessisches Landesmusum Darmstadt by.Johannes PIETSCH ๐
progress, reinspiring
Inspiring afternoon spent sorting through the back room ๐ I found a few old projects that I may just redo now that I have them all in one corner and can see how much work would be involved.
Hannibal/Elissa costume. I found my old bodice and new velveteen (needs colour to be deepened) and rope skirt. Also my sarees that were going to be cut to trim all the edges.
Mon Mothma. I didn’t think I’d cut the sleeves out as well but I have so the tunic just needs hemming and then the tabbard can be made. No hurry but it’s not taking up too much room so I’ll keep it. I really like the fabric I used anwyay.
Green Velvet 1860s dress. Well the skirt has been cut and partially sewn. I may unpick and line it though.
Blue velvet 1500s Flemish. This is the Eowyn dress unpicked. I finally have all the pieces so will look at what to line it with. I adore the figure of Clotho in The Triumph of Fame so am very tempted to line it all in a peachy pink.
Phantom Wedding dress. All the little rosettes I made… and my lace would look beautiful for this skirt… I don’t know. I will probably at least fix the bodice and then see how I like it all still.
Carlotta from the movie, Hannibal ensemble: skirt, corset and lining for the cloak are all there. The jewellery and wig would be really fun.
Mme X, the bodice is now miles to big, but I will see how much fabric i have left for the skirt as it will make a really nice evening gown full stop let alone as an historical piece.
Shot green skirt and fabric pieces, my 1870s spring garden gown. The bodice is in my room and I may just overlock all the layers so that I can really try and see how I like the fit thorugh the shoulders. Then the drapery will be simple panniers and train. With flowers all over ๐
Lucy lilac and white dress. I really do want to make this as an inspired by gown instead.
With the UFOs in my room I think I have enough projects to keep me going for a while ๐
So what do I have in my room?
Catwoman, Witchblade (bodysuit redo), Imperial crew uniform, TIE, Mara, supendous gown of doom (Worth sunburst), remake of my Cleves (my icon), tabs for the Cleves surcoat….
Yeah, so no stress to make anything new ๐
Ummm… I have another cunning plan. I will probably be doing my Worth Gown this year. *hangs head* But I know now how quickly I can pearl so it shouldn’t be too bad. As a refresher:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/histor
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/histor
I actually have just over 6m of the silk faced satin which will be pleanty as I can top and tail the skirt sections, the bodice has no shoulders or peplum or sleeves so I shoould be able to get the train out of it as well.
Help. *is obsessed*
Oh further to the Operation Clean Up, the soot is proving stubborn in the sleeve linings so I may wind up replacing them with silk charmeuse I bought for an Ever After gown. It’s currently a very pale pink but I may get more colour out with another round of Dye-Gon (previously known as Pre-Dye) and so be able to use that without an interlining.
Do I now unpick the sleeves from my Cleves gown? And maybe the lining? I was shaking quite hard as I was unpicking the valois sleeves as it was. This is rather a bigger step so I’m not sure how I’ll do. So I was right in making something new for Coronation. It was stressful but the stresses were indirectly related to the fire. Unpicking past work and confronting the very direct effects of the fire would just have been too much at that time. It’s hard enough now. But I can do it.