Twentieth century instruction book; artistic ladies’ tailor system (1902)

Twentieth century instruction book; artistic ladies’ tailor system (1902)

Author: Vienna ladies’ tailoring institute, New York. [from old catalog]
Subject: Dressmaking. [from old catalog]; Garment cutting. [from old catalog]
Publisher: New York, Vienna ladies’ tailoring institute
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 7753660
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Notes: no page numbers
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Ooooh, saving this one! Detailed text on the side of each pattern step and a few adverts. Definitely recommended!

The practical sketcher; a complete and practical method of sketching, for women’s, misses’, junior’s, children’s and infant’s garments (1915)

The practical sketcher; a complete and practical method of sketching, for women’s, misses’, junior’s, children’s and infant’s garments (1915)

Author: Rosenfeld, Isidor, 1881- [from old catalog]
Subject: Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher: New York, The Leading pattern co.
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 6366445
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

How to create those sketches used in pattern drafting systems!

The Maude Russell system of garment cutting; text book .. (1917)

The Maude Russell system of garment cutting; text book .. (1917)

Author: Russell, Maude (Westerman), Mrs., 1885- [from old catalog]
Subject: Garment cutting. [from old catalog]
Publisher: Oklahoma City, Okla., Maude Russell garment cutting co.
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 9649190
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Woo! An actual system with tools and all! The tools are not included but it should be possible to scale up to full size and make some from firm card. Project for summer???

The Holmes cutter. A practical system for garment cutting that is based on selfvarying principles for block patterns .. (1894)

The Holmes cutter. A practical system for garment cutting that is based on selfvarying principles for block patterns .. (1894)

Author: Holmes, Nelson. [from old catalog]
Subject: Tailoring
Publisher: [Chicago?]
Year: 1894
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 8218422
Digitizing sponsor: The Library of Congress
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Oooh, very nice, tailor garments for men and women. Laid in landscape so very practical!

The American system of dressmaking (1909)

The American system of dressmaking (1909)

Author: Merwin, Pearl
Subject: American College of Dressmaking, Kansas City, Mo; Dressmaking; Tailoring (Women’s); Garment cutting
Publisher: Kansas City, Mo., The American College of Dressmaking
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 10096944
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Okay, this is lovely. Drafting, sewing and fitting for a full wardrobe from innerwear to outerwear. Basically to the point where you’d have to go buy things (like millinery, hoiery, shoes, and corsets.)

Mainly women’s clothing.

Addn 16/09/18: as per the wonderful comment below I went to look for more information about the school.

The Rotarian

May 1914
144 pages
Vol. 4, No. 9
ISSN 0035-838X
Published by Rotary International
Established in 1911, The Rotarian is the official magazine of Rotary International and is circulated worldwide. Each issue contains feature articles, columns, and departments about, or of interest to, Rotarians. Seventeen Nobel Prize winners and 19 Pulitzer Prize winners – from Mahatma Ghandi to Kurt Vonnegut Jr. – have written for the magazine.

More such adverts can be found, I used the following search criteria: https://www.google.co.nz/search?tbm=bks&hl=en&q=American+College+of+Dressmaking%2C+Kansas+City

Text book with diagrams and illustrations embodying the basic principles of designing, reproducing and garment cutting; (1917)

Text book with diagrams and illustrations embodying the basic principles of designing, reproducing and garment cutting; (1917)

Author: Blackburn, Juditha, Mrs. [from old catalog]
Subject: Tailoring (Women’s) [from old catalog]
Publisher: Los Angeles, Cal., The Blackburn company
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 6841634
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Another system using a special tool. I think one of these books has the tools in the back ready for cutting and pasting to heavy card, it’s a matter of finding it!

Rosenbleet’s perfect system of ladies’ garment cutting, specially designed for self instruction (1911)

Rosenbleet’s perfect system of ladies’ garment cutting, specially designed for self instruction (1911)

Author: Rosenbleet, Joel. [from old catalog]
Subject: Tailoring (Women’s) [from old catalog]
P
ublisher: Los Angeles, The author
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 6354454
Digitizing sponsor: The Library of Congress
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Another measurement system with pattern guides- nice and clear, again an in between style- the CF is on a slope.

Home dressmaking; (1913)

Home dressmaking; (1913)

Author: Ford, Jane. Mrs. [from old catalog]
Subject: Dressmaking
Publisher: New York, Cupples & Leon company
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 9639199
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Another in between but the illustrations are very clear- not a drafting system but how to alter patterns and also a handy guide on how to adjust a corset and making your own bust form (hint making a fitted lining and put over a standard form- hen pad to fit. Good instructions on stay tapes to prevent stretch.)

Guide to dressmaking (1876)

Guide to dressmaking (1876)

Author: Symonds, J. Henry, pub. [from old catalog]
Subject: Dressmaking; Garment cutting. [from old catalog]
Publisher: Boston, J. H. symonds
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 8686671
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Lovely info on those self trimming effects so prevalent in the 1870s! Not heavy on construction or fitting.

The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker (1894)

The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker (1894)

Author: Davis, Jeanette EHolahan, Cora M., ed
Subject: Dressmaking
Publisher: New York, The Cassell publishing co
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 10088784
Digitizing sponsor: The Library of Congress
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congressamericana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

pdf now!!!!! OMG!!!! i LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE this book. I use the pattern diagram for my Victorian bodices and it talks about things totally not thought of. Like how to smooth the layers of the bodice from under the side of the bust to over, and then pin the fronts to shape. This is because the lining won’t stretch as much as say a wool shell and this makes the fabrics work together.

It also talks about feather boning which is actually made from feather quills!

by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014

A word about perfect systems of cutting, which will do
away with any necessity for trying-on, may not be out of place:
every dressmaker hopes to find one, and learns system after
system in the vain endeavour. If such a thing were possible,
tailors would have discovered it before this ; the costliness
of the material they work upon, and the difficulty of making
alterations upon firm cloth, as compared with soft dress
materials, would ensure their straining every nerve to master
knowledge so very desirable and essential ; and the really
marvellous fitting without trying-on which is done by many
dressmakers as well as tailors would seem to declare that the
knowledge has been mastered ; but those same tailors and
dressmakers know that the risk of alteration being required
has always to be faced, in spite of careful measuring, of
a pattern bodice at hand to compare with, and of the most
minute care having been taken with every step of the work
from first to last. It is well for less experienced workers to
be very careful and painstaking, and not to expect too much
from the cutting only. Perfect cutting must be followed by
perfect making-up if everything is to be perfect throughout,
and such perfection cannot be ensured as a matter of course
to every worker, be she clever and experienced or altogether
otherwise, simply by the cutting-out.

The book is really stuffed full of information, and really is my go to for late 19thC bodices.