Okay, this is lovely. Drafting, sewing and fitting for a full wardrobe from innerwear to outerwear. Basically to the point where you’d have to go buy things (like millinery, hoiery, shoes, and corsets.)
Mainly women’s clothing.
Addn 16/09/18: as per the wonderful comment below I went to look for more information about the school.
Vol. 4, No. 9
Published by Rotary International
Established in 1911, The Rotarian is the official magazine of Rotary International and is circulated worldwide. Each issue contains feature articles, columns, and departments about, or of interest to, Rotarians. Seventeen Nobel Prize winners and 19 Pulitzer Prize winners – from Mahatma Ghandi to Kurt Vonnegut Jr. – have written for the magazine.
Another in between but the illustrations are very clear- not a drafting system but how to alter patterns and also a handy guide on how to adjust a corset and making your own bust form (hint making a fitted lining and put over a standard form- hen pad to fit. Good instructions on stay tapes to prevent stretch.)
pdf now!!!!! OMG!!!! i LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE this book. I use the pattern diagram for my Victorian bodices and it talks about things totally not thought of. Like how to smooth the layers of the bodice from under the side of the bust to over, and then pin the fronts to shape. This is because the lining won’t stretch as much as say a wool shell and this makes the fabrics work together.
It also talks about feather boning which is actually made from feather quills!
A word about perfect systems of cutting, which will do away with any necessity for trying-on, may not be out of place: every dressmaker hopes to find one, and learns system after system in the vain endeavour. If such a thing were possible, tailors would have discovered it before this ; the costliness of the material they work upon, and the difficulty of making alterations upon firm cloth, as compared with soft dress materials, would ensure their straining every nerve to master knowledge so very desirable and essential ; and the really marvellous fitting without trying-on which is done by many dressmakers as well as tailors would seem to declare that the knowledge has been mastered ; but those same tailors and dressmakers know that the risk of alteration being required has always to be faced, in spite of careful measuring, of a pattern bodice at hand to compare with, and of the most minute care having been taken with every step of the work from first to last. It is well for less experienced workers to be very careful and painstaking, and not to expect too much from the cutting only. Perfect cutting must be followed by perfect making-up if everything is to be perfect throughout, and such perfection cannot be ensured as a matter of course to every worker, be she clever and experienced or altogether otherwise, simply by the cutting-out.
The book is really stuffed full of information, and really is my go to for late 19thC bodices.