Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing (1892)

Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing (1892)

Author: Myers, Annie E
Subject: Dressmaking
Publisher: Chicago, C.H. Sergel & company
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 7748833
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congressamericana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Full of how to’s for construction, including how to use gathers and

When there is a great deal of material to gather into
a small compass, the gathering stitch has to be discarded,
the intervals between the stitches being too
wide to sew across. Then the material is evenly
pleated up and sewed as pleated to the belt, shown in
the uncompleted portion. The advantage of this gathering
over real pleats is that the gathered pleats are
upright, and the material below hangs freely, while
pleats are sewed flatly into the belt and confine the
material more.

pg 38

Narry a comment about these being cartridge pleats at all. Because they aren’t, if anthing hanging pleats would be more accurate.

Cutting diagrams included.

Dress fitting made easy .. (1892)

Dress fitting made easy .. (1892)

Author: Barnes, A., L. [from old catalog]
Subject: Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher: [Philadelphia]
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 6817382
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congressamericana
Notes: This book is not numbered!
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Short but with lots of notes for each bodice part.

CASNEAU’S GUIDE FOR ARTISTIC DRESS CUTTING AND MAKING (1895)

Casneau’s guide for artistic dress cutting and making (1895)

Author: Casneau, Alice A., Mrs. [from old catalog]
Subject: Dressmaking
Publisher: Boston, Brooks bank note company
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 9154845
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congressamericana
Notes: gutters were tight through out the book
Love this! Actual in progress photos of a stunning tailor dress.

It’s difficult but I’m about to delve in to my digital archives (there are 100,000 files just in general historic, not my SCA era folder!)

BAUGHMAN’S ADVANCED HINTS ON DRESS CUTTING 1892

Baughman’s advanced hints on dress cutting 1892

Author: Baughman, J. S, [from old catalog]Baughman, M. E., “Mrs. J. S. Baughman,” joint author. [from old catalog]
Subject: Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher: Burlington, Iowa, Commercial printing company
Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language: English
Call number: 9627428
Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation
Book contributor: The Library of Congress
Collection: library_of_congressamericana
Full catalog record: MARCXML

Very good for someone experienced in the styles.

So the cosplay stage is back :)

So the cosplay stage is back 🙂

Yay! Need to do an equipment must have and equipment would really love list 🙂

But in the mean time I an looking at doing a designer vs Cosplayer: The Red Queen hypothesis in action talk and a proper semi hands on patterning talk.

The patterning would be mainly about the basic engineering and maths with a few “this defies planning so here is what to look out for” bits thrown in. So how weave works and that yes seams have a purpose and despite what pattern drafting books say you can’t just redraw them however you like. Because fabric is not paper. And the body is not able to be mapped in 2D as easily as drafting systems say.

But on the other hand how drafting can save a heck of a lot of time in the planning stages and is a more cost effective start than draping. And you can plan for issues even if you have to tweak or totally change them later. And you can work to scale, oh yes.

I’d kind of like to address the convoluted curves issue of the front of the armscye/sleeve head and seat, because those are not just a pita for home sewing but are often areas that have sacrifices made at the manufacturing level. Like especially the seat seam of women’s trousers. Got that uncomfortable bifurcated look? it’s not you it’s the freaking manufacturers saving money. And it’s incidentally a really really really really strong case for why you can’t just add from one seam to another. This is why!

And this shows the nice complexities of the sleeve head/armscye issue as well.

 

Sewing

Sewing

So this is not only great for learning some basics and learning them well and pretty easily, but it’s a fascinating look in to the past. This is for Ontario schools but I have read some similar books for the US, not so much elsewhere. I suspect that is more due to lack of these being shared on sites like Project Gutemburg.

Speaking of which, I have several hundred manuals to link to, I’ll try and do a master list for my site (under the header construction) because wow, seriously wow. Some of these books explain terminology that we still use. And what has been dropped and why- generally many modern fitting woes are down to trying to force more pieces from a length of fabric. A really good item is here: Yep, that is the title, and yep this is the main cause. If you get a good fitting pair of pants for goodness sake take a pattern because you will want to copy it it over and over again. My Regina bodysuit is my go to for four panel bodysuits.

It’s also a really good example of how you can’t just take from a pattern in one place and put it somewhere else despite what a lot of drafting books might suggest.

%d bloggers like this: