American System of Dressmaking- updated

I had a lovely comment come through about a personal connection to the book (a relative who passed the course and gained their Diploma!)

The American system of dressmaking (1909)

So I have updated with a little more information to put the book in context. 

There are also a few more recent books that describe it as the largest successful dressmaking correspondence school at the time:


How I Learned The Secrets Of Success In Advertising
By Guy Lynn Sumner

And that lead to learning about Mary Brookes Picken as I realised I have probably skim read at least a few of her books through the archive.

Mary Brookes Picken on Archive.org

Instruction book for the French and English systems of cutting, fitting and basting

Instruction book for the French and English systems of cutting, fitting and basting

by McCall, James. [from old catalog]
Publication date 1881
Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher [New York
Collection library_of_congressamericana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English
Call number 7753846
Openlibrary_edition OL23634383M
Openlibrary_work OL13841925W
Page-progression lrPages 110
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this
Full catalog record MARCXML

Oh this is great! Note that the above image shows one way of reducing wrinkles at the waist. There are others also inside the book.

image showing seams taken in at the back and extra added at the side hip.
Image showing wrinkles at the waist of the left, on the right a solution by opening all seams from hem to waist and taking fabric away at the back and front and adding to the side.

Hecklinger’s ladies’ garments

Hecklinger’s ladies’ garments

by Hecklinger, Charles. [from old catalog]
Publication date 1886
Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher New York
Collection library_of_congressamericana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English
Full catalog record MARCXML

Rarely, for this time, this book looks like it is indeed published within a year of cerating! The illustrations look like they are straight from the 1885 Butterick catalogue so this book is one I’d highly recommend along with articles from magazines of the same year.

It also has a lot of illustrations showing details such as facings, how to make all kinds of trimmings and what the pleated/kilted underskirts actually look like underneath the drapery.

garment cutting for workshops

I promised a list of the books on garment cutting brought in already for the workshops Auckland Libraries​ (Waitakere Central Library Henderson​)
These are some of my favourites

Guide to dressmaking
by J. Henry Symonds, , 1876
https://archive.org/details/guidetodressmaki00symo
(full illustratiosn for stitches and trimmings)

The science and geometry of dress
by Mrs. Louisa L. Jackson, 1876
https://archive.org/details/sciencegeometryo02jack

Ladies’ cutting made easy
Thomas Hiram Holding,1885
https://books.google.co.nz/books/about/Ladies_cutting_made_easy.html?id=GC8BAAAAQAAJ&redir_esc=y
(lots of variations on dresses very clear illustrations, diagrams take a bit of care)

A Concise Treatise on Ladies and Misses’ Tight-fitting Garments:
by M. Kaempfer, 1886 (Moschcowitz Brothers)
https://books.google.co.nz/books/about/A_Concise_Treatise_on_Ladies_and_Misses.html?id=Tqimbul_qxkC&redir_esc=y
(This is mostly of the Princess Dress style- this iwll be covered in the bodice workshop as they rely on a good bodice foundation)

Directions for cutting garments with the Davis improved square
by Myra A. Davis, 1888
https://archive.org/details/directionsforcut00davi

The national garment cutter book of diagrams.
by Goldsberry & Doran, 1888
https://archive.org/details/nationalgarment00gold
(Chock full of very easy to follow diagrams- these look modern!)

Instruction on Leola M. Head’s self teaching system of cutting ..
by Leola M. Head, 1889
https://archive.org/details/instructiononleo00head

Instruction book of Bisbee’s American tailor system of dress cutting
by F.S. Bisbee,1895
https://archive.org/details/instructionbooko00bisb

Casneau’s guide for artistic dress cutting and making
by Mrs. Alice A. Casneau, 1895
https://archive.org/details/casneausguidefor00casn
Very long book with photogravure polates of the garment in progress. It makes it very simple to understand the various engraved diagrams.)

The Kintzel dress cutting system, 1896
by A. G. Kintzel,1896
https://archive.org/details/kintzeldresscutt00kint

Maurice’s system of dress cutting..

Maurice’s system of dress cutting..

by Sivarz, Maurice. [from old catalog]
Published 1889
Publisher [n.p.]
Pages 28
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language English
Call number 6267213
Digitizing sponsor The Library of Congress
Book contributor The Library of Congress
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Notes There are no page numbers listed
Full catalog record MARCXML

This one has a ball taille, and yes, there is a single seam at the front bodice! This is what I had been noticing in garments so it’s nice to have it confirmed.

Studies in plain needlework and amateur dressmaking .

Studies in plain needlework and amateur dressmaking ..

by Ross, Harry A., Mrs. [from old catalog]
Published 1887 Topics Sewing, Dressmaking Publisher Battle Creek, Mich., W. C. Gage & son, printers
Pages 56
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language English
Call number 9622452
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Book contributor The Library of Congress
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record MARCXML

Instructions in dressmaking, basting and fitting

Instructions in dressmaking, basting and fitting

by [Moschocowitz brothers, New York] [from old catalog]
Published 1884 Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog] Publisher [New York
Pages 40
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language English
Call number 8222341
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Book contributor The Library of Congress
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record MARCXML
This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Sadly only a single image of line art is included

Fashion magazines

Many more fashion plates in context! Some of these have made their way into cosutme history books.

Of interest to me is how much pink there was in the 1870s! So much. It’s quite… fashion doll pink in plates but I have some paintings where it’s much softer 🙂

 

I have linked to the about pages in each case, click the book cover then the thumbnails icon to be able to see at a glance how much information there really is! Some of these came with pattern suppliments, it’s a pity these have simply been scanned to show that they exist but from experience of scanning my own magazines they are on webarchive) it is a big ask as it is!

 

Le Moniteur de la mode: journal du grand monde ; modes, illustrations, patrons, littératures, beaux-arts, théatres.

1874

Revue de la mode: gazette de la famille, Volume 1

1870

Les Modes parisiennes:

1872&1

Journal de Demoiselles

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=kBxfAAAAcAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1874

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=HE5iAAAAcAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1875

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=r1gEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Magasin+Des+Demoiselles.&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1878

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=yVkEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Magasin%20Des%20Demoiselles.&source=gbs_similarbooks

1881

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=x_wGAAAAYAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1883

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=71gEAAAAYAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1884

The Tailor and Cutter and London Art Journal

The Tailor and Cutter and London Art Journal: An Index of Cutting, Fashion and Trade

1890

Another tailoring book, but totally packed with diagrams of fantastic quality.

record of fashion

The Weekly record of fashion

1882

Beautiful plates.

The Monthly record of fashion, volume 7 1883

The Monthly record of fashion, volume 8 1883

The Monthly record of fashion, volume 9 1884