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on new brocade border (Saree from) so happy! But that heart does really stick out!

#anneofcleves #stickelchen on new brocade border (Saree from #trademe) so happy! But that heart does really stick out!

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accidental heart! This will have leaves and pearls added back πŸ™‚ thanks to N. For an arts and craft round trip. Beading needles for tbe tiniest pearls πŸ™‚

#anneofcleves #stickelchen accidental heart! This will have leaves and pearls added back πŸ™‚ thanks to N. For an arts and craft round trip. Beading needles for tbe tiniest pearls πŸ™‚

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leaves are going on the front too πŸ™‚

#anneofcleves #stickelchen leaves are going on the front too πŸ™‚

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leaves are being removed to fit more pearl work to blend the front and back. It’s okay they will go back on πŸ™‚

#anneofcleves #stickelchen leaves are being removed to fit more pearl work to blend the front and back. It’s okay they will go back on πŸ™‚

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cleves is sort of on track

I woke early and put Pride and Prejudice on and sewed. And sewed.

Backtracking a few days: My support bodice has been theorised and made. Basically I went this area has both Dutch and German influences and I really don’t want another sidelacing support so what if…?”

The shoulder is cut separately like in Alcega and other tailors. Because like me those tailors said “man this wastes fabric also I want a stable neckline all on the grain thankyouverymuch.”

I have done thisΒ since.. well the Kampfrau at least,Β but Β in all the site moves this has been lost. So, that’s the two-fold benefit of cutting shoulders separately. Oh, but the shoulders are a single layer like the Effigy stays because it really is super comfy!

Then I wanted to try to use the overhanded body seams. This was nervewracking! I know the curvy S front seam means that’s where fitting happens, but it is very apparent from extant items that the side back was where the final fitting happens. This is clear when you look at the even seam allowances at the front but uneven allowances at the side back. That can only happen if the fronts were fitted and made up and the side backs done last.

I have managed that through very bad initial fitting stages though…

So here is my cunning method of transferring a seam and also my curvy S front seam.Β The entire bodice (aside from sloping neckline) is straight from a tailor’s book seen in Kohler’s History of Costume that looked like it was made up but is definitely from an extant manual.

I thought it was in Drei Schnittbucher (which really I hope everyone has) but I think was in another article. I will find it. Meanwhile the Kohler diagrams:

So finally I used twill tape to stabilise where I’ll be poking lacing holes, and bound the entire piece by hand.

Lots of falling in love with all the characters from P&P here and also lots of life lessons between my first viewing and latest!

So that wasn’t enough. I also removed the dye from the brocade for the hem of the gown proper and started putting the stickelchen together properly.

I like making hats, I love millinery. So of course am doing this as complicated as possible. But it’s at least plausible and mimics the structure I know was used for rigid headgear at this time. Oh trust me that documentation is coming but it’s been a slog to reverse image search as my bookmarks are out of control! And because it’s been over a decade since this project started there are broken links to hunt for archival forms πŸ˜‰

The twill tape is to stabilise the edges.And the front shell is in place and the jeweled band is in progress. Just second guessing a few decisions for that one. I just don’t have the finding I know I want to use. The pretty ones clearly have glued stones and the “aged” gold is just not what you want for period items (you didn’t pretend the bling was dirty or not real, you wanted the bling!.)

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stabilising the edges. To day is a lot of handsewing of light hand held items.

#anneofcleves #stickelchen stabilising the edges. To day is a lot of handsewing of light hand held items.

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overhanding the shell to the base. Lots of careful stretching!

#anneofcleves #stickelchen overhanding the shell to the base. Lots of careful stretching!

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yes! My oringinal theory that these are selfsupporting and use physics to stay up continues πŸ™‚ this front piece will be covered in metalwork so it will hwlp even further πŸ™‚

#anneofcleves #stickelchen yes! My oringinal theory that these are selfsupporting and use physics to stay up continues πŸ™‚ this front piece will be covered in metalwork so it will hwlp even further πŸ™‚

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any chance to get to do real millinary work is great. Not as good as a wooden form but I know this is a close process. My buckram sizing just happens to be modern. Soooo good though. I have 10m at least (more than 10yards)

#anneofcleves #stickelchen any chance to get to do real millinary work is great. Not as good as a wooden form but I know this is a close process. My buckram sizing just happens to be modern. Soooo good though. I have 10m at least (more than 10yards)

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stickelchen test fit

Love. So in love. My hair has been lost and regained between first making and wearing to now, so I have to do something different with my haube. Right now the back of the one I wear under my pearled Braunchweig haube pushes the back of the stickelsche out of place. This style depends heavily on having braids just so and haube just so. But doesn’t really require much fussing once on. It’s just getting familiar with your hair and fabric properties πŸ™‚