lightbulb- the mina

Okay so while looking for photos for insurance I found my first photos of my new Mina bodice and had quite a revelation.

So I find it very painful to do fitting for historic gear. It’s physically painful. 

I have helped that a bit with The Mina because I shaped all panels before putting eyelets in the back so I can lace it closed even during fitting.

But I’m having trouble with boning because well it’s also painful to cut. and to handle in general.

And I realised where most of my fitting trouble is which is the bust.

I need to cord the whole thing!

I want a mid-late 1870s shape and to get that cording is often used in the hip and bust gores.

Of course!

SO this is great.

My Marie antoinette stays need a lot of topstitching before I can bone that too and I may even use a bit of cording in that to soften some of the harshness of the metal stays.

I didn’t account for cording in my pattern but I have a good seam allowance at the sides.

The cording is going to help retain the shape I carefully created in fabric as it collapses off the form.

Marie Antoinette progress

I am refreshing the courier update page hoping to see my parcel of steel boning goodness escape the airport (released by customs!) I’ve not bought steel before. But I think I have a plan on how to use both the steel and plastic boning I already have. And the excess plastic will be used for a potentially larger lobster bustle for The Mina.

Marie Antoinette petticoat- rolls of cotton bobinette cut and ready for stitching together.
Marie Antoinette petticoat- a pile of pinned strips of cotton bobinette. 
marie Antoinette petticoat- rows of cotton bobinette strips pinned and trimmed ready for edge treatments.

So far so good. The petticoat will be covered in ruffles and I decided that as the fabric is very light that I would go for a 3:1 gather/pleat so as to really ensure a soft and fluffy layer between the gown and hoops.

Marie Antoinette stays- Two layers of bobinette each panel, hip and bust gores and a narrow cotton twill tape for boning channels. The tape is on the inside.
Marie Antoinette stays- hook and eye tape being hand stitched to the centre fronts.

I really wanted a zip up the front of the stays after the practice in making stays like this for Broadway costumes. I decided on hook and eye tape to minimise any disruption to the front of the gown to be worn over the top. It is also why I am not using a busk. 

There is such a delicacy to the original gown that is enhanced by the length of the bodice and the drop from waist to hips of the panniers. So I’m trying to help that effect from the inside to outside.

The other thing about this gown is that it is very narrow front to back even by comparison to the other gowns from the same film.

48 strips

48 strips of cotton bobbinette for my #marieantoinette petticoat. Well one of them. Really tempted to make the foundation a simple rectangle so I can use it under other gowns.

48 strips of cotton bobbinette for my #marieantoinette petticoat. Well one of them. Really tempted to make the foundation a simple rectangle so I can use it under other gowns.

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48 strips of cotton bobbinette for my #marieantoinette petticoat. Well one of them. Really tempted to make the foundation a simple rectangle so I can use it under other gowns.

instagram update

#marieantoinette lace arrived. It’s so beautiful!!!!!!

instagram update

#marieantoinette lace arrived. It’s so beautiful!!!!!!

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skirt draping. This is the lining then I’ll start cutting the silk.

#marieantoinette skirt draping. This is the lining then I’ll start cutting the silk.

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