Well I have divided the hilts into reasonable lengths and created supports so now… now I hope I can just make a curve and use the plugin. Hopefully. I am exhausted.
My Ahsoka hilts skew up the green axis when I used the plugin that bends shapes. It’s so subtle though that it’s very hard to see. And there seems to be a strange slight warp on the surfaces too. So I have had to go back to a much earlier saved file to see if I can get it to do the thing it needs to. I will take the opportunity to try and create the support extrusions as they can be all bent at the same time.
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After using the shape bender I used hidden geometry to work out why the end looked blunt and then added lines.
And then used Solid Inspector2 to check for errors. It actually fixed some things that were meant to repair, but not my edges which I did expect.
And then I found trying to slice through horizontally just did not work. The model is perfectly horizontal but as soon as I intersect faces it doesn’t. So lots of short pieces like for Ventress 🙂 I know that worked so this should work too 🙂
I started making fairly the overlaps to help join those pieces once printed but I’m not so I like them, so I’ll spend a little more time today on making ring supports instead.
Each hilt is more than 10 pieces. This is to better reflect the different materials (copper, silver, black) Also to allow the same print to be used as non functional and functional by having some separate blade holders able to be used simply as support, the end cap being functional with the D ring holder and screw. I kept getting errors using the bolt making plugin so I’d rather just not use that atm. It should work at a larger scale but I did find scaling could be unpredictable with curves,
These also have to be arranged in correct alignment for printing. which I will do once the connecting sections are added.
I find this quite painful and painfully slow work. A lot has had to be drawn by hand even after using tools and plugins. For example the supports I’m making can’t be just extruded as they connect into pieces on a different angle. So I have to copy from one piece and add to the first and then measure and draw to size. Luckily 5mm seems to work well so I can at least be fairly consistent with that 🙂
It’s seriously fiddly work, lots of copy paste and drawing on the inside and outside
So after finding the short cuts to delete selections and delete inverted selection I did isolate my horns in ReMake and I did then manage to get them into Sculptris and have been smoothing and pinching and generally finding it really pleasant. Intuitive I think.
Just have to remember that there is a limited number of times you can undo!
The brush is also cool, I need to see if I can change the shape not just size but the pinching, crease, and smoothing tool have done so much already!
And yes, I am building this as a symmetric piece so it may need care when I print- but I am inflating the base so that should give enough room to put in a foam layer for comfort.
I will still work in sketchup to make my Ahsoka hilts but I need something a bit more powerful than Sculptris or Remake to do what I need to do for all the horns.. I can’t easily find an ability to copy and take out selections in either so what the heck.
Oh sculptris looks brilliant for putting textures on, but my Remakes models are the full scene when all I want is the head. ANd so I can probably use sculptis to make my own fantasy horns, my head cast and put them into blender and assemble in digital space.
I have tried to make my horns in Sketch up. it’s.. well the curve is a bit too complicated otherwise is is pretty easy to make a twisted cone. It’s the very particular curves of this sculpt!
Basically we are having our third severe weather event in just over a month so working on plastic and latex or anything that will be affected by condensation is not a goer today.
I will also work on my Worth beading pattern 🙂 So excited 🙂 All new post about that one too 🙂
Whoops, I miscalculated yesterday. The figure is actually 135mm from heel to crown. And the saber definitely is shorter than inside elbow to knuckles.
So that actually works. I know this is shorter than in the show, and is shorter if I go by the same calculation of the concept art. That is by all the means possible- comparing the length of forearm or hip to knee or straight up measurement from crown to heel.
So I think if I go for 12″ or 30cm (probably 30cm as I can more easily work out wall thickness based on current 3D printer specs) I’ll have something that is as close to perfect as possible.