over-complicating costumes since forever ago
I don’t like to use patterns, I find infinitely more success with drafting (more than drafting, and drafting more successful than using an existing pattern.) It has everything to do with modern pattern blocks. In general bodies vary each generation but there is a fashionable shape as well as a fashionable size. My shape goes…
The draft really didn’t need a huge amount of adjusting, I may just need to adjust some of my measuring 🙂 The back is lovely, it’s just too wide in the shoulders, and my mannequin does have a higher shoulder than me. The front is a bit of a mess, I always have this trouble…
The science and geometry of dress by Jackson, Louisa L., Mrs. [from old catalog] Published 1876 So, the trouble with the system is the “bust” measure is a sort of not really measurable distance where the armhole (arm size) and the side seam end. And then you take the back measure separately. Not a full measure…
Okay, so the body templates are very wrong! My scale isn’t too far off but the markings on it are not perfect. I will do an annotated run through. One problem is the book says to lay the front waist tool 1″ from the edge of the material. but the tool already has a 1″…
The science and geometry of dress by Jackson, Louisa L., Mrs. [from old catalog] Published 1876 We cut on the fold due to wide fabrics, this explains why cutting fronts is best done individually. Yes! The side is where you can do some final fitting tweaks. But it was better to adjust everywhere else first. How…
This particular form has a few features I have, a pronounced upper ribcage curve, high bust, round ribs. Her hips are a bit too round in cross section but that is easy to adjust by dialing the front and back dials a size larger and the side dials a size lower. I used very…
As per my previous posts I now have the tools for the 1876 drafting system. https://archive.org/details/sciencegeometryo02jack The science and geometry of dress by Jackson, Louisa L., Mrs. [from old catalog] Published 1876 I printed and used contact spray to lay them on the inside of a cardboard box my new mirror came in. So nice to have…
I am not completely convinced the size is correct but I have isolated each tool from: The science and geometry of dress by Jackson, Louisa L., Mrs. [from old catalog] Published 1876 I only know the dart and the skirt tools are correct for printing- as pdfs. The waist and curve… not so sure. I need to…
https://archive.org/details/sciencegeometryo02jack The science and geometry of dress by Jackson, Louisa L., Mrs. [from old catalog] Published 1876 Topics Dressmaking So this is really interesting and does indeed help explain the fish dart in some garments. Why? The basic pattern blocks for bodices were still based on ones from the 1860s. This is to say the…
I am more than 5/6 through the overhanding of the gold borders. I physically can’t make tiny stitches but I also have no one to do this kind of sewing for me and no machine sewing even looks as nice as my slightly long stitches. So, it’s a case of sck it up, no one…