Well I need a very specific corset. If you look through most corset diagrams in magazines at the time, you’ll notice a trend for corsets that constantly curve through the back and waist and hips, front and back.
But Ithese really are designed for a fashionable shape which includes displacing fleah from the waist and pushing it up and dowm to fill in the upper and lower curves of the corset.
I simply am not shaped like that. I did have best luck when I was experimenting with stays with either using the front length measure and scaling to that, but there was too much roo at the upper back that just never did sit right.
So I tried a gusseted style and loved it.
IThere is not a lot of reduction is just basically acts to hold my shape exactly so. It works to prevent the gowns I wear over it from squishing me. The gussets are self supporting. I am doing a post immediately after this for the Rock the Frock series of a corset i think is going to answer all my needs, and be historic 😉
This was my favourite set of stays I have ever made for myself, and I am totally struggling to remake them! I am also trying to illustrate why I love them so much to help someone with their gussested corset.
So the first part was the pattern. These are all the pieces I used laid out. (whoops, the back hip gussests are on the left, the front hip gussets are on the right.)
I had already semi mocked the pattern. It’s a mix of 1870s and 1900s corsets. Mainly 1870s but I knew what I wanted was a long torso and defined bust. I am pretty small but I was able to get really good uplift by making sure the gussets were as deep as possible To do this I turned back the edges on the body panels and stitched them down then fitted the shape of the gussets on the form.
I also fitted the body panels and hip gussets separately. This allowed the body panels to do all the vertical shaping and pulling in while the gussets were made slightly larger to add to the illusion by allowing what was displaced at the waist to sit in the gussets.
When laid flat you can see how the gussets act independently of the torso. And you can also see a principle I try and use in everything- no bones over the bust. I use long stays to the inside and the outside of the bust but not over it. This just helps with definition like nothing else. I used a similar method for my Mina lining as well as my Elsa.
And I am very happy with how well this worked!
Like I said, this is the best pattern for me and I needed this boost to remind me to remake it in silk and with a real busk!