The Mina

I have finally got really sewing again. Many reasons why I didn’t, but I am testing various therapy for fibro so have a few temporary options for pain. The daily stuff hasn’t really seemed to help for a full day.

Anyway. So I have been putting some of what I know works for me in other costumes to the test with The Mina and it’s working. It’s also offering a way for me to explain how my Northern Renaissance patterns work as they use the same basic engineering. The trick to shape is in specific curves.

The front of my bodice shows how the gussets are able to give a really crisp definition to under bust and hips while being very flat on the CF line.

The side view shows how the bodice basically has the straight of grain from shoulder down side and then is perpendicular to the waist. This is the same principle I use for my earlier patterns. 

Here though I have to use gussets over the bust for the idealised figure of the original. In the earlier patterns I just use the bias of the grain in the bust area to create support (not possible to mimic with a rigid mannequin though.) The key thing is that essentially the foundation is very stable vertical through the side and as far up from the waist as possible then allow ease over the bust. Some styles have that change a little further down some higher up (sort of starts very high in the lat 15thC then drops a bit and gets higher and flatter with the influence of Spanish style all over Europe.)

The back also shows some of my stabilising efforts. The V neck is prone to bagging both front and back so I’ll be using some stay tape along the edge later.

The hip gusset like the front one allows for the hip to hopefully be directed to the side rather than squished in.

This V shape of stitching follows some of the shapes seen in gusseted corsets especially. But as this is a bodice I was able to put in an angled side back seam to help smooth that out.

So speaking of smoothing out one of the dressmaking books I looked at again recently shows what I mean about how historical shaping is not just about the initial pattern being very different but the methods of fitting are also different. The post is here. Go straight to the book here (The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker
by Davis, Jeanette E; Holahan, Cora M., ed, Publication date 1894)

1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3, Stretching for the hollows of the figure ; 5 to 5, Crossboning; 4 to 4, Extra bone in front.

I’m basically using the lines 3 and 4 to keep my fabric straight and thus most supportive. I will be using the methods of putting in vertical darts in the shell.

Here is the illustration showing where to add padding into that hollow for two variations (f for fuller, h for hollower). Also the darts at B and C are for lining fabrics only- this is likely that lining fabrics can’t be eased as easily as shell.

so cording

I may have to take a pattern from the last bodice for The Mina and maybe, maybe remove the over bust seam and cut in gores. 

Fortunately there is a fair bit of the rip stop cotton. Oh yes! Actually cutting gores and gussets will work and probably even better with the cording.

Just got a copy of Jill Salen’s Corset book. I need to make it as a separate lining and line the silk in something to just not show the cording. It was always going to have to avoid the boning of course.

Okay actually yes I can use my fabric I just need to decide on unpicking or finding all the vertical lines for the vertical cords and horizontal for horizontal. Okay. This is now a plan with potential!



by admin, December 21, 2014

Even more so than Elsa- same pattern but I’m avoiding the desire to tone it back. And behind them both is the basis of a rather shapeless elf dress.
Mina is two layers of sateen so far and still pinned at key points. I’ll try and pinch a little more under the bust though it does work better on me (plus padding).

Slightly general untagged post as I am fighting what I know as physical signs of depression. Right now I’m having some relief from the therapy but have no appetite and just want to sleep. Two issues related to the therapy but I also found myself starting to delete myself from online again and that is not part of the sick reaction.

This tends to be a time of year when all sorts of stresses fall, and this year has just been a doozy.