Instruction book for the French and English systems of cutting, fitting and basting

Instruction book for the French and English systems of cutting, fitting and basting

by McCall, James. [from old catalog]
Publication date 1881
Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher [New York
Collection library_of_congressamericana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English
Call number 7753846
Openlibrary_edition OL23634383M
Openlibrary_work OL13841925W
Page-progression lrPages 110
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this
Full catalog record MARCXML

Oh this is great! Note that the above image shows one way of reducing wrinkles at the waist. There are others also inside the book.

image showing seams taken in at the back and extra added at the side hip.
Image showing wrinkles at the waist of the left, on the right a solution by opening all seams from hem to waist and taking fabric away at the back and front and adding to the side.

Hecklinger’s ladies’ garments

Hecklinger’s ladies’ garments

by Hecklinger, Charles. [from old catalog]
Publication date 1886
Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher New York
Collection library_of_congressamericana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English
Full catalog record MARCXML

Rarely, for this time, this book looks like it is indeed published within a year of cerating! The illustrations look like they are straight from the 1885 Butterick catalogue so this book is one I’d highly recommend along with articles from magazines of the same year.

It also has a lot of illustrations showing details such as facings, how to make all kinds of trimmings and what the pleated/kilted underskirts actually look like underneath the drapery.

Pattern plates

They are done! The scanner is unplugged so the caster can use the plug so I’ll start scanning as soon as I am ready.

I just went for my daily walk so am stretching while I decide on the order these will be printed.

Six skirt patterns, four bodices, several sleeves from a simple block. Only haven’t managed to work in my Anna Meyer block which is sleeve with no shoulder strap. But I can get that.

Making drafting tools!

I decided that I have wanted an authentic pattern drafting machine but I’ll never be able to afford one, so I’ve got a nice clear copy of a few originals and now with the power of image editing software it’s time to make some.

Step one, figure out where to scale.

Done and done 🙂 By the end of the day there should be a copy ready for any other drafting nerds 🙂

Also these might just be inspiring enough to hunt down originals 🙂

Skirt workshop this weekend

My workshop this weekend is on skirts. And drapery. Two polar opposites in terms of making but work together.

So I can do a conservative skirt, fully gathered/pleated (to waistband/yoke), very gored. And work through the waterfall drapery and then basically quote from resources at the time- you can’t work out a drapery pattern by looking at the finished garment in the 1880s. And it’s fairly true. So I’m collecting all the extant and contemporary ones I can find to put them into some sort of easy to visualise system.

Currently though printing All The Patterns so as to have them ready for the other workshops too 🙂

draping and workshop writing

I managed to get the hip gathers of my Padme Light Blue actually sitting nicely 🙂 So there has been a little bit of basting of gathers and sorting out layers. next step is to sew. Just need to look at piccies to see which direction the seam allowances lie, or if I’ll have to do some very careful hand stitching to set the SA of the gathers back into the gathered section. Not exactly doable with machined stitches, and so I’d have to look at handsewing them. Not totally ick but enough icky-wiggle room to make it a case of doing one side each evening. The fabric is stretchy so backstitches will be needed and so that means careful stretching as I stitch. Pretty sure that they are machined though and so the SA turns to the vertical gathers and could be hidden in the folds.

 

And so I then turned to other tasks which included plotting out my workshops in more detail and got a little confused. I started listing things to cover that were useful across different elements.

And then I found my initial online guides notes and realised that the answer was there all the time. Doh! The order in my notes is perfect. i just now need to set down and do some digarmas fr sleeves and bodices. And collate some notes on trimming as I have pleats and gathers and darts already written up 🙂

 

So I now have a really good flow for the workshops and have all my current notes sorted into different clear protectors and completely in love with how this current theme works printed up. It’s just so clear and the title and header even looks right. So happy. It meant I was able to print my tutorials for my meeting and it means my workshops will webify easily and then in turn be able to be printed.Pretty darn excited and even if not a heck of a lot was actually done it has been part of a longer term exercise in establishing a routine to get larger projects done.

In that regard as well I realised have have brilliant lining fabric for Missy and can still part with other fabrics. Might have to see if I can get them on TradeMe- the biog issue being that these are varying weights and they really should be tracked to make sure they get where they need to be. And so that makes for a bit of difficulty in setting up an auction. I know I like an upfront cost!

Workshops- A Modular Frock – The Gilded Age

Yep, doing another series of workshops this time with a “single” focus of getting participants a full set of patterns that work together to make a frock from 1870-1900.

Where: Waitakere Central Library, Auckland, New Zealand

When: Saturday afternoons

Dates- TBC, after the Steampunk Festival but over June and July.

The basic frock will be plain, but over the course of the series of workshops there will be moments to stop and be able to think about materials, patterns, layers. And there will be a whole workshop dedicated to draperies and trimming. Yep. Hands on waterfall!

Oh yes. I am keen to make this work for everyone from living history folks, to Steampunk, to cosplay (have I mentioned my Elsa is based on this modular system? Well she was. And that is why my skirt looks the way it does- it is actually a victorian skirt.

So the dates are yet to be confirmed but it will work around the Oamaru Steampunk festival and SCA midwinter. So I am putting out feelers for whether people want a weekly or fortnightly.

Also while these are frocks, and they are challenge there is no upper or lower age, nor experience needed, nor gender bias. The point of the workshops is to get a toolkit to be creative. If you have no experience with sewing you will pick up some handy hints as what I will be focusing on is the engineering. There will be new terms as well.

And I really am keen on getting at least two more cutting tools made up, so there will be a chance to play with them too 🙂

Maurice’s system of dress cutting..

Maurice’s system of dress cutting..

by Sivarz, Maurice. [from old catalog]
Published 1889
Publisher [n.p.]
Pages 28
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language English
Call number 6267213
Digitizing sponsor The Library of Congress
Book contributor The Library of Congress
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Notes There are no page numbers listed
Full catalog record MARCXML

This one has a ball taille, and yes, there is a single seam at the front bodice! This is what I had been noticing in garments so it’s nice to have it confirmed.

Studies in plain needlework and amateur dressmaking .

Studies in plain needlework and amateur dressmaking ..

by Ross, Harry A., Mrs. [from old catalog]
Published 1887 Topics Sewing, Dressmaking Publisher Battle Creek, Mich., W. C. Gage & son, printers
Pages 56
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language English
Call number 9622452
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Book contributor The Library of Congress
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record MARCXML

Instructions in dressmaking, basting and fitting

Instructions in dressmaking, basting and fitting

by [Moschocowitz brothers, New York] [from old catalog]
Published 1884 Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog] Publisher [New York
Pages 40
Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.
Language English
Call number 8222341
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Book contributor The Library of Congress
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Full catalog record MARCXML
This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Sadly only a single image of line art is included