lillie langtry and worth- part 2

Some time ago I bought a copy of People and Pearls which included a very large two page photo of Lillie reclining on a settee and I thought oh yes that dress.. nope. It’s not the same dress as appears in in Victorian and Edwardian Fashion A Photographic Survey as I thought but is a later dress but also by Lafayette.

This gown is of the same type as the infamous ironwork dress by the House of Worth. Here though the velvet is in an open and stylised “palmette” (as opposed to another velvet used in house which was a densely filled palmette style.)

These gowns often have the pattern mirrored around diagonal seams from waist to side seam and often the front is likewise mirrored and cut on the diagonal.

http://lafayette.org.uk/lan2194.html

The bodice appears to fasten up the front and the front overlaps to her right side (our left) and closes under her arm.

http://lafayette.org.uk/lan2194.html

The skirt appears to close at the CF line with an inverted pleat below knee level.

http://lafayette.org.uk/lan2197a.html
https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portraitZoom/mw56835/Lillie-Langtry?LinkID=mp14015&wPage=1&role=sit&rNo=37

An extreme close up reveals that the bodice shaping is carefully created by centering one of the motiffes at front waist and the fabric carefully cut away from the top of the motiffe allowing the design to be the means of shaping over the bust. 

scan from People and Pearls.

By this stage many of Lillie’s bodices seem to be of a very similar shape, very conical and quite flat. This shape seems to also repeat in House of Worth bodices of the same sort of date range.

The pearl swags are repeated under her arm to the back of the bodice.

This gown was worn by Lillie as Mrs. Trevelyan in The Degenerates. Her gowns are described as: 

Mrs. Langtry in flesh-colored satin with sapphires, Mrs, Langtry in pale-blue satin with diamonds in dazzling array, Mrs, Langtry in white v/ith pearls,…

MRS. LILY LANGTRY’S COSTUMES FOR THE STAGE, by, ROSE LEE HEAD, B.A. 
https://ttu-ir.tdl.org/ttu-ir/bitstream/handle/2346/22475/31295010288347.pdf

There are hand coloured photos of Lillie and one from this set has been tinted blue.

This fabric is also to be found in an extant House of Worth gown at the Metropolitan Museum of art:

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81751?who=Worth,+House+of$House+of+Worth&pg=7&rpp=20&pos=133

Tassinari & Chatel supplied Worth with many velvets in different colourways and it is likely this is a different colourway as there are some differences in how the pattern is handled in each example.

lillie langtry and worth- part 1

As per my prior post about Sarah Bernhardt I could not but help but have Lillie well represented in the research materials I collected on historic dress.

As a model and as an actress she appeared in paintings by Millais and in photographs.

One of my favourite ensembles she wore just recently came back to attention in House of Worth 1858-1952.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lillie_Langtry_by_Napoleon_Sarony,_1882.jpg
http://www.loc.gov/pictures/resource/cph.3b24627/
https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47df-1088-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99
https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47df-1089-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99
https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47df-108a-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99
https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47df-1085-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99
https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47df-108b-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99
https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47df-108c-a3d9-e040-e00a18064a99

frou frou

I haven’t shared to much of this side of my costuming interest- but I wound up collecting a lot of theatrical costume from the end of the 19thC.

Sarah Bernhardt, Lily Langtry, Ellen Terry, Elanora Duse, Adalina Patti, etc..

One of my all time favourite garments is a heavy brocade princess dress worn by Sarah Berhardt in Frou Frou. I bought a biography just for this view (though these images are from Gallica on BNF.

https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f27.item
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt_-_Sarony,_New_York._LCCN2005683956.tif
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f3.item
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f5.item
http://www.artnet.com/artists/napoleon-sarony/sarah-bernhardt-1844-1923-new-york-jOJcTGEItnibRip88ZGoYQ2

Some of her other costumes are found in Die Mode (Maz von Boehn) as is a portrait of Eleanora Duse in the same role.

http:/http://memoria-attori.amati.fupress.net/S1010?genere=2&idcollegato=1&contesto=1
http://memoria-attori.amati.fupress.net/S1010?genere=2&idcollegato=1&contesto=1

Of interest is that these two gowns are very similar in effect. Alternating rows of dark patterned fabric with an open worked material in a pale shade on the tablier.

And no sleeves.

And a high neck.

Meanwhile other costumes worn by Sarah include a gown with perfectly shaped swags all over the tablier. This has also been said to be of her in the lead role of Camille

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt,_Froufrou,_3695,_Photo_W._%26_D._Downey.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt_by_C.R._Savage.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:SarahBernhardt_alsKameliendame1881.jpg
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f18.item
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f24.item

And finally a very frothy confection that also happens to have an example of the very long form of cuirasse bodice that doesn’t end in a point but instead sits on the legs. This has also been said to be of her in the lead role of Camille

https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f1.item
(I cannot find the original of this particular scan)

The first of the following paintings by G. Clarin is in Die Mode. I hadn’t realised it was indeed based on the real costume above.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Georges-Jules-Victor_Clairin_-_Frou_Frou,_1882.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Clairin,_Georges_Jules_Victor_-_La_Promenade.jpg

rock the frock-Alexandra Fedorovna COurt gown

While looking for WIP photos I’m also finding inspiration photos and now I am really inspired by a few pearled garments.

Finding the original source of this is proving very difficult (the photo owner is in there but where she posted it is not) but there is a great interactive exhibit! Huge photos definitely worth the effort of being stuck in the site and no static pages.

http://www.hermitage.guide/costume/costume1.html#

Right click to translate to English (or your own) click Catalogue> Women’s Suit> Court Costume then the dress is after the royal blue velvet. I’ve grabbed info for my favourites after sharing info about this gown 🙂

Dress by the court ceremonial of the Empress Alexandra Fedorovna
Russia, St. Petersburg. The end of XIX – beginning of XX century.
Workshop O. N. Bulbenkova

∙ Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
∙ Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, wife of Nicholas II

artificial pearls, silk threads.
Leaf: back length 39.0;
skirt: the length is 103.0;
Train:length 300,0
On the strap of the corsage printed with gold Workshop mark: Mrs. OLGA DRESS
S.-Petersburg Sink No. 8
Post. in 1941 from the GME; earlier: in the dressing room of the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna in the Winter Palace of
Inv. № ЭРТ-13146 а-в

Silver eye, silver thread, silk, beat,  sequins, wire, fluff, lace; embroidery Leaf:
back length 33.0; skirt: the length of 169.0;
Train:length 340,0
On the strap of the corsage printed with gold Workshop mark: Mrs. OLGA DRESS

Dress of the court ceremonial Grand Duchess Maria Feodorovna
Russia (?). 1860s

∙ Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
∙ Empress Maria Feodorovna, the wife of Alexander III

Silk, tulle, metallic thread, artificial flowers
Leaf: back length 32.0; skirt: length 140,0;

length 320,0
Post. in 1941 from the GME
Inv. № ERT-8612 а-в

 

Dress the court ceremonial mourning dowager Empress Maria Fedorovna
Russia, St. Petersburg. 1894
Workshop of A. Ivanova

∙ Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
∙ Empress Maria Feodorovna, the wife of Alexander III

Silk crepe with embossed texture, satin, lace, silk ribbons.
Leaf: back length 37.0; skirt: the length of 180,0; loop: length 440,0

At the corsage printed with gold workshop brand: FASHION AND DRESSES / AT T. IVANOVOY / S. PETERBURGH
Post. in 1941 from the GME; earlier: in the Anichkov Palace
inv. № ERT-9429 а-в

Dress the court ceremonial
Russia, St. Petersburg. The end of XIX – beginning of XX century.
Workshop of Ivanovs

Velvet, satin, metal thread, beat, gimp, silver plates; embroidery

Leaf: back length 34,0; skirt: the length is 150,0; loop:length 330.0
On the tape of the corsage printed with gold the workshop brand: on the sides – an image of two exhibition medals, a shield of arms
and an inscription – Supplier / courtyard of His
Imperial Majesty Ivanovs / Fashion
and dresses. Saint-Petersburg / Fontanka
at Chernyshova Bridge # 68-7, sq. M. 16. Phone K-2234
Post. in 1941 from the GME
Inv. № ЭРТ-13132 а-в

 

 

but yes, photo sorting because there is quite a backlog of photos to sort and lots more to try and locate.