lemberg updates

This is probably the last thing I need to do- a new post uncategorised- but I did indeed wear my Lemberg inspired garments though I didn’t manage to finish my Poysdorf inspired shirts.

So the Lemberg shirts allowed me to be the most comfortable at rest in a long time. It was very hot at the site and my nightshirt (which I use as a stunt shirt) was just a layer too much. It is anyway because the Fibro and Rheumatoid Disease and broken rib all mean anything that adds bulk to my torso to then squish into a laced dress is just too much.

And my shirts have never been excessive.

But the Lemberg shirts essentially acted as a very lightweight garment to protect my garments from me and while I didn’t quite manage to get my short shirts done I did get to test a few ideas.

I am probably going to reduce the fullness of the body of one of my shirts. This is after test driving a kleyr (“kleer” from collier and can be an under and outer garment, it is all on what fabrics were used) tied to mauwen (sleeves, sometimes part of a garment, sometimes an accessory and sometimes made from linen!) and finding it a very comfortable arrangement as opposed to tying the sleeves to my Lemberg shirt.

So yes. The shirt I made looked a lot like the reconstruction in that it is a little too long through the torso and the bust cups were not entirely made to fit me.

I suspect I need to shorten the torso to make it actually supportive, but it was also really adaptive, especially having the CF top not made in one. While I was wandering around just in my linens the top edge sat right up into my armscye area, and once dressed I could arrange the edge to meet in the middle or overlap so as to make a perfectly flat inner neckline.

So I do have two of these and I may look into some more transcribing and translating to work out what region specific garments might have looked liked. I know there were linen and fustian inner garments.

But I do need a lot more kleyr and mauwen to actually call what I have a wardrobe.

I also am remaking the bodice of my red linen dress to try and make it a bit earlier.

new information

Oh! While I’m here.. it’s so funny. As soon I wrote, somewhere not sure where, that I hadn’t seen a mitred corner in shirt collars… I find one.

Amazing to be able to see that. The majority of my images are not clear but there are enough really good ones now to be able to do this.

So I’ve seen eased around a corner, butted corners and now a mitred corner. Not seeing a pattern as to date or type but well, it’s great because I have used all of these 🙂

Fibro has currently made itself felt today (starts being tender like a bruise all over and moves into muscle spasms fairly quickly after) so I am having a very forced break.

But I am about ready to convert a couple of chemises into Lemberg style garments. There is just too much circumstantial evidence that these were actually used a lot.

We have all the imagery for one, but also the Poysdorf finds basically include a single layer sleeveless and skirted garment as well as two cropped shirts. Also several ‘little” shirts as well as other kinds in the 1519 inventory. It makes so much sense cost wise as well and comfort. My sheer chemise bunched up under my skirts and my heavier shirts with very little fullness stay put and are much cooler in summer and warmer in winter to wear.

It’s kind of an interesting situation to be in. I’m effectively doing what Elsabeth Horns did which is to make over over garments rather then buy new.


Who wouldn’t use academia if I was to upload my research there?

This is not a rhetorical question I am trying to find the best option based on multiple considerations.

I use it a fair bit to get access to articles otherwise hidden behind paywalls. But I know it’s not possible to search for articles (I need to actually start using it properly though.) And I know a PDF has limitations for text to speech readers.

I just am finding a blogging platform not ideal for scholarly articles.

Also, wow. So gold everywhere. It’s not just a case of valuing the gold itself but also having as many different techniques as possible. And I think I have spotted a few repeated articles which is amazing. With the written guild records and personal accounts it’s a bit more of a glimpse into daily life by being able to image how that comes to be. A workshop with several people working in different ways and records and work books.

I Do frocks not just the aesthetic but as a launch to understand people. I get annoyed when costume is treated as unimportant or frivolous. It’s so deeply personal and yet is the direct result of thousands of years of human history. We can rebel against fashion or use it. But it still is a super complicated subject.

Also I am starting to feel a connection to the people. This is both through the art (I have several portraits of the same women, or relatives, through several decades) and written work. Even stripped down summaries of legal proceedings have had an impact. Emotional too. Harsh a lot of the time.

I’m having trouble with galleries and search/tag/category options in themes here so my timeline of images is stalling again. So I may have to spend a bit of time with alt text and media settings. It would be great if there was a way to use attachment pages only for certain media types but that’s not how WP works. And I’m not totally confident in mixing other databases and front end content.

sort of on track

I’m a bit behind my schedule for both my research and my pattern book. I have a wee set back because I think my harddrive is failing and while I do have everything backed up I’m not keen on reinstalling my OS. So I’m trying to work around that. Also I’m making so many back ups but also adding to my research so it’s still a bit messy.

But I did manage to take the brocade off my most recent hat and put a new cover on. I may want to do a little bit of adjusting of the edges. There are a very few images that suggest the hat is a very thin shell indeed and the way i tidied the edges made them a bit bulky. But that said it is a different shape and that style does curve back in, so I think I may be okay. 

I think I know how to tackle the new galleries I need to do for the Nordrheinwestfalen pages. It seems that if I caption an image in a galelry on a page that remains and is used whenever that image is added to another page. So if I can caption the images first i can use them on multiple pages.

And I do now how to frame the hat research. It has taken so long to trust my own instincts, but what that meant was that I wound up posing a challenge to my hypothesis on multiple fronts and that I think led me to being more secure.

I still am not entirely sure about some specifics. But that can be a later project.

Meanwhile. I need yet another nap. So very tired and sore and very overheated. Hello humidity.

new purse project: starting

So excited. I ordered yet another purse frame, this one is perfect in shape. Except it’s all holes. But this means I can use it as a base and use that super mega solid (and sticks to metal) knead-it to make the shape I want. And then it can be used for casting if anyone is interested in a) doing the casting in metal and letting me know what kind of mold is needed b) anyone interested in a cast so that I can pass the mold on to someone who can make more copies.

I couuuuuld potentially park out at a makerspace and do the casting myself in pewter. I thiiink I could do that safely. I miiiight be able to park at a makerspace and trade for someone else doing the mega hot metal stuff.

But the frame is almost bang on for shape and size. And I think that is the cheapie metal you can super easily file cut down as well. Will need to do so.


There is a Cranach painting where the purse has a gold tone. so YAY! Shhhhh, this is an allegorical painting but Cranach is very well known for basically painting princesses over and over again. His workshop probably produced more of that genre than any other. 

Note my wonderful pink coat at the lower edge there. Yes I take photos of books then promptly lose them in my various folders. Currently trying to get all my files organised. Super tough.

new purse project: inspiration part 3

So I finally managed to organise all the Aldegrever prints (there are three sets of dancers.)

Aldegrever was active in Soest which technically makes him in the Nordrhein-Westfalen area. Which is great as some of the features seem to support the use of Weiditz as there is a very strong Saxon feeling with headgear that is more of a blend between Saxony and NRW.

So three different types are present.

The first three are drawn with the ties drawn right up to the belt (gurdel). Then there are two that are drawn but have a separate tie to the gurdel (might be a circular frame? There is an extant purse with what looks like a soft frame.) And finally an arch frame purse that has hardware to attach it to the gurdel.

Brilliant! I can happily make an arch frame after all. But I may also make a circular/loop style as well while I figure out a way to really get the purseframe of my dreams.

I do have a knife case and set of mother of pearl handled knife and fork. I want to upgrade that as well as I used very recognisable filligree brass pieces to decorate the case! 

new purse project: inspiration part 2

So now I need to think about the body of the purse. To see if there is a limit to the materials or the colour, or the kinds of compartments.

The first of the following frames all seem to have the same style of arch. 

Archivnummer: 016173; Persistent Link 016173; Bildthema: GĂĽrteltasche; Datierung: 1400-1500; Material: Leder , Metall; Technik: Lederarbeit , Schmiedearbeit; Objektart: GĂĽrteltasche; Standort: Kempten, Bayern, Deutschland; Institution: Diakonisches Werk und Stadtarchäologie, 16262

This purse seems to have two main compartments and the front facing one has an additional gathered pocket the full width of the bottom half (below the hinges.)

Nurnberg GNM, beuteltashe mit eisenbugel, 1501-1600

This again has a fill width pocket across the front but this looks like it has two gathered circular openings towards the middle. There are several of the button-rosette decorations on this one, on both the body of the pouches and on the end of one tie. There may have been more on other ties.

Frauentasche middle 16thC. 

This one is interesting as it has that series of stitches in the flat area within the frame. It also has three circular pockets on the front. These are quite distinctive and can be seen better on a couple of loop frame purses. It also has little rosette-buttons.

Behältnisse für Kostbares 1500-1700, published in 2005.

Beautiful condition! With the button-rosettes and decorative stitching across the flat section within the frame.

Germanisches National Museum. 1501-1600. GNM T 4219

This purse has extra compartments on the inside but the outside has some fine line details. This kind of parallel lines are seen on both leather and textile purses.

Germanishes National Museum, 1501-1600 MNM T 2533

No external pockets, but at least two hanging compartments one rounded and with a strip to widen front to back the other flat and squared.

More rosettes.

Behältnisse für Kostbares 1500-1700, published in 2005.

Lots of great images for the closing mechanism! Also two pouches on the reverse, a different shape. I suspect that the suppleness of the leather is a very important factor in these and other shaped pockets.

Goat’s leather belt pouch with iron frame and 18 pockets, some behind secret closures, France, 16th c.
“As a status symbol for an aristocratic gentleman, this buckle bag with its 18 secret compartments was worn attached to the belt.”

18 compartments! Okay so obviously i now need to find some books.

Now that I have looked at the standing frame types on to the hanging loop type frames.

new purse project: inspiration part 1

I think my collection of purses might have gone missing. Regardless of status, missing/misplaced, I need to replace them for purpose.

And so off to the bildindex, the google, the pinterest (actually pretty good if you can reverse image search after) and I realised.

There are multiple extant variations of a particular frame. A frame I am now obsessed with. They do vary a bit, some have belt hooks, some have a loop to hang from. They are also used in conjunction with the hanging loop frames.

They all appear to be iron, as all the frames of this era, though at least one is tinned, so they probably were quite vibrant originally.

pos.no.: 2488 A Renaissance belt pouch (money pouch), Nuremberg, circa 1600

Of interest is the view of the top of the arch showing a little of how the fastening works. on our left in this image there is a spring action closure and to our right what looks to be a turn- or it could be a dummy? But the small square on the opposite frame lines up so it could be a very short turn latech? But two different forms of closure would help keep this secure. It reminds me of the bottom of a laptop- one side can be slid open and the other is a spring that has to be held for the full length of time as you open.

Sadly I don’t have over 3K euro to buy one so let’s continue online window shopping.

The Museum of Bags and Purses
Posted on December 26, 2012 by Stacey Bewkes

I swear this looks like the body is replaced but look at those decorations, I’ll come back to that.

The Metropolitan has three of these frames! Dated quite widely.

Purse frame; Date:16th century; Culture:German, Nuremberg; Medium:Steel; Dimensions:Overall (open): 5 3/4 Ă— 5 1/4 in. (14.6 Ă— 13.3 cm); Classification:Metalwork-Steel; Credit Line:Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1957; Accession Number:57.137.17

Purse; Date:early 17th century; Culture:European; Medium:iron, linen, silk, metal, paper; Credit Line:Gift of Catharine Oglesby, 1959; Accession Number:C.I.59.30.3

Purse; Date:16th century; Culture:probably German; Medium:silk, iron; Credit Line:Anonymous Gift, 1986; Accession Number:1986.537.1

Germanisches National Museum. From Bildindex but I’m having trouble with both versions of the site.

Jaktvästa, LRK 997; Date mid 17th century; Medium chamois leather (Färg: gul, material: sämskskinn) – steel – silk – silk; Färg: grön,ljusblĂĄ, material: silke) – velvet – leather; Dimensions; Weight: 1,120 g (39.50 oz); Length: 470 mm (18.50 ″); Width: 425 mm (16.73 ″); Collection; Royal Armoury Blue pencil.svg wikidata:Q1636176

I limited to this particular lion head frame but I am looking at other framed purses to see what kind of compartments to add. There are a few extraordinary hanging loop frames in pristine condition to use. And there are other square and arch frames to look at.

The next post will be about the decorations and pouches as seen on the Purse Museum example.


I finally decided to just self host my research! There are many reasons but primarily I wanted to be able to get this information actually out there, so that i can use it too!

There are ways to cite a website for scholarly research, and so I am hoping that this time credit will come back! 

I have a few clothing ordinances to upload as well as a page on guilds and what they were responsible for. Even an amazing inventory that supports a theory I have, but I need more information to put it in context- it may be a coincidence after all.

I also have uploaded the contents of two inventories:

One more day, maybe today

Until I publish the Nordrhein information. I just need to add a glossary of fabric and colours, and also tidy the information about jewelry.

I am going to have a rest though as I will not sleep if I leave this until tomorrow actually.

So to the WHo.