Year finished: 2003
To Do: New chemise, new kirtle, new hennin and veil, new necklace
Updates since last photo: None
Inspiration: Several portraits and illuminations c 1480 from the lowlands.
Tangerine orange wool gown based on a portrait of Mary of Burgundy. This style of gown can be seen in several sources though is not as common as the more familiar high waisted gown worn during the late 15thC.
The wool was on sale at a furnishing store and was heavy enough to not require a lining. There is a full length linen kirtle underneath as well as a chemise based on period depictions. The headdress is made from wire and card covered with velvet. I made a pair of soft leather slippers lined in faux fur to wear with the gown as well.
The gown is a mix of unwaisted (full length) panels at the front and a waisted and semicircular skirt at the back. This appears to have at least been plausable based on illuminations and tapestries of the period.
The 15thC was a time of great changes in the shaping of clothing and there are several extant items (houppelande and doublet syles) showing definite circular patterns, as well as at least one extant gown showing a full length and shaped style. There seems to be some mix of the two and combinations in many allegorical paintings as well as illuminations.
The gown is partially lined in linen.