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scanned rib

And nothing shows. Well the break did. It was quite impressive to be fair. It’s also the rib above the one that hurts. So I broke the last false rib and it’s the free end of the first floating riib that hurts. The break is very close the the end of the 11th rib so maybe that’s why it hurts? It could be tiny ligament? But it feels like there are nerves at the end that are pressure sensitive.

That’s not showing up though.

So at least I know it’s the floating rib so it in theory can’t really do much, it’s kind of reliant on the costal muscles- and I know they need stretching so… hopefully that’s it.

 

What is a bit of a worry is my carpal tunnel feels like it has started up again. I did wrangle with some blue swimmer crab, and also with some fused fabric. So there is that. Also pressed my Elsa cape flurry and snowflakes.

 

It’s now a couple of hours later- and I have regained a lot of flex ūüôā It’s no lie that flinching over my rib has caused muscles to seize all the way to my feet. But I can sit in second position again and rest my chest along my legs, and I can lean on my elbows level with my feet. I used to nearly get my chest to the floor but for only a week, if that, yes- a lot of power in regular stretching, pain relief when needed to do my strength building.

Instagram catch up

 

My Take A Breather costume- A remake of my Jem dress ūüôā The belt and shoes were still fine but I also have a glorious new wig. So it needs a really glam dress.

And Ahsoka belt and bracers. I now have the belt wet forming on a dressform.

The horns separated in temperature change, the plastic went up and the clay went down. This necessitated getting the horns able to be worked on more easily and able to be tidied away.

Take the seat off a stool and replace it with the sculpting surface. Perfect height for sitting at ūüôā

My back lekku is a little short and the front sit too close so I also had to change how I worked with her.

So I put my old head cast on a dress form. Her neck is so short because I was aligning bust and chin. My shoulders sit much lower and my neck is rather long. This may help exlpain how much work I need to do on patterns to fit them! And why dress forms are rarely helpful.

This is a waratah. It is not supposed to be a standard (long skinny trunk and ball shaped top.) But that is what we have. Also the bottle brush at the back is not a single tree but is doing what the waratah was supposed to.

Finally some of the ducks are back. This one taps on my door for food. And then goes to the other end of the drive to the house to ask for more.

So that rib

Turns out it’s broken, healing but broken. Cartilage does not show up on xrays though and here is weirdness at the jon between bone and cartilage so I will ask for further investigation.

As for what can be done… nothing. Pain relief. But nothing.

Stalled progress

My Ahsoka lekku did not cure as well as needed. So I’m going to see if I can tidy the belt template and start tooling leather.

Maleficent horns

New horn frame with some clay added back. The aim is that this will be easier. Also when scanning I only need one horn, thank goodness.

It took all day

But I am nearly back to where I was. I decided that I was too annoyed by the short back lekku to be happy. Side track to making a new stand for sculpting and I now have wiggly lekku- one attached two on the floor.

 

And so much mess.

 

So much.

 

But the back lekku has a layer of latex, there is latex grouting on the new montral seams (actually an older cast that was still in pieces) and I also templated a headband for her.

catching up here and elsewhere

I mainly use Iinstagram right now- shared to twitter, facebook page, and tumblr. I used to be able to use a handy plugin to import the 750x750pxl images into my media, but can’t now. So it’s a case of remembering to batch convert a whole pile of images as well as crop them before updating ūüôā

I also went through all my digital photos and put them in folders month by month, year by year. Did you know you can use command to create hundreds of files? To get to that point for yearly files has to be done year by year but basically, this works:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_xp-files/creating-multiple-folders-fast/da378bc8-e96f-4fc7-affc-cf94e30b73dd

 

I changed the theme here. One small issue with my fonts (can’t seem to call on the google fonts), but it loads faster. Not in love with the blog page layout- that may be a case of changing preview image sizes. Or seeing if I can tweak the layout. But it’s clean and as close the theme I most love. But it loads faster and even editing here is a bit faster.

There have been things happening, but they deserve their own posts. While waiting for my iron and Berocca to kick in there will be an attempt!

rock the frock-Alexandra Fedorovna COurt gown

While looking for WIP photos I’m also finding inspiration photos and now I am really inspired by a few pearled garments.

Finding the original source of this is proving very difficult (the photo owner is in there but where she posted it is not) but there is a great interactive exhibit! Huge photos definitely worth the effort of being stuck in the site and no static pages.

http://www.hermitage.guide/costume/costume1.html#

Right click to translate to English (or your own) click Catalogue> Women’s Suit> Court Costume then the dress is after the royal blue velvet. I’ve grabbed info for my favourites after sharing info about this gown ūüôā

Dress by the court ceremonial of the Empress Alexandra Fedorovna
Russia, St. Petersburg. The end of XIX Рbeginning of XX century.
Workshop O. N. Bulbenkova

‚ąô Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
‚ąô Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, wife of Nicholas II

artificial pearls, silk threads.
Leaf: back length 39.0;
skirt: the length is 103.0;
Train:length 300,0
On the strap of the corsage printed with gold Workshop mark: Mrs. OLGA DRESS
S.-Petersburg Sink No. 8
Post. in 1941 from the GME; earlier: in the dressing room of the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna in the Winter Palace of
Inv.¬†‚ĄĖ –≠–†–Ę-13146 –į-–≤

Silver eye, silver thread, silk, beat,  sequins, wire, fluff, lace; embroidery Leaf:
back length 33.0; skirt: the length of 169.0;
Train:length 340,0
On the strap of the corsage printed with gold Workshop mark: Mrs. OLGA DRESS

Dress of the court ceremonial Grand Duchess Maria Feodorovna
Russia (?). 1860s

‚ąô Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
‚ąô Empress Maria Feodorovna, the wife of Alexander III

Silk, tulle, metallic thread, artificial flowers
Leaf: back length 32.0; skirt: length 140,0;

length 320,0
Post. in 1941 from the GME
Inv.¬†‚ĄĖ ERT-8612 –į-–≤

 

Dress the court ceremonial mourning dowager Empress Maria Fedorovna
Russia, St. Petersburg. 1894
Workshop of A. Ivanova

‚ąô Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
‚ąô Empress Maria Feodorovna, the wife of Alexander III

Silk crepe with embossed texture, satin, lace, silk ribbons.
Leaf: back length 37.0; skirt: the length of 180,0; loop: length 440,0

At the corsage printed with gold workshop brand: FASHION AND DRESSES / AT T. IVANOVOY / S. PETERBURGH
Post. in 1941 from the GME; earlier: in the Anichkov Palace
inv.¬†‚ĄĖ ERT-9429 –į-–≤

Dress the court ceremonial
Russia, St. Petersburg. The end of XIX Рbeginning of XX century.
Workshop of Ivanovs

Velvet, satin, metal thread, beat, gimp, silver plates; embroidery

Leaf: back length 34,0; skirt: the length is 150,0; loop:length 330.0
On the tape of the corsage printed with gold the workshop brand: on the sides Рan image of two exhibition medals, a shield of arms
and an inscription – Supplier / courtyard of His
Imperial Majesty Ivanovs / Fashion
and dresses. Saint-Petersburg / Fontanka
at Chernyshova Bridge # 68-7, sq. M. 16. Phone K-2234
Post. in 1941 from the GME
Inv.¬†‚ĄĖ –≠–†–Ę-13132 –į-–≤

 

 

but yes, photo sorting because there is quite a backlog of photos to sort and lots more to try and locate.

time to latex

I had a good start yesterday. Having experiemtned with many tools now I will be able to do a poper tutorial on making best use of latex under different circumstances.

I’ve used filler, paints, brushes of all kinds, and now it’s finally paying off. My lekku are looking good and my montral can be trimmed down today ūüôā I tried to get video of the trimming process but had instagram fail. so to the camera and tripod!

I can also get some photos the laying up in progress ūüôā

Elsa cape dye recipe

I have started my new cape so I thought ¬†I’d quickly set out the measurements of dye needed.

 

For a 2.5m long cape (2 1/2y+10″, 1m is 1y+4″):

Do this in two batches, do not be tempted to do it all in one go unless you have an industrial sized pot and oven!

 

5m of 150cm tulle/net (5y 20″ of 40″ wide fabric)

1 dye pack of iDye poly blue

2x Color enhancer (unless you have access to the colour enhancer sold separately (I wish I did!)

 

Stovetop

Stock pot

tongs

whisk

measuring jar (and two smaller identical containers)

bucket (2x if you want to save the dye)

 

Latex gloves

 

Additional: horsehair braid for hem will also tint to match.

 

Pre-wash the net to remove any shop dust or sizing that may be on the fabric. I often use a liquid dish soap for this. It creates a lot of foam but it really strips any oils off. Dry fabric.

 

Divide the length of fabric into two 2.5m (2 1/2+10″) lengths.

Dissolve the dye in a glass measuring jug use about 2 cups. Whisk the dye through to totally dissolve the now gummy pack.

Heat water in a very large stock pot. I am not sure what mine is but I fill it to 2/3 then top with boiling water to a level the dry tulle comfortably fits in. When wet it will collapse and so be able to stir evenly.

Once the water is simmering add half the dye. I had no markings on my jug so I first divided it equally between two glasses that had obvious markings to use as a guide.

Then tear the colour enhancer pack perfectly across and use every last drop.

Let water come to near boil.

Quickly use the tongs to transfer the tulle to the pot, short lengths at a time, push the newer fabric so that the earlier fabric moves along and creates a circular spin in the water, continue to add the fabric until all is in the pot. Using the fabric dry will not cool down the water and so will actually help get a very vibrant colour.

Boil and stir for 5m.

Transfer to bucket and take the fabric out of the bucket on a lawn. This saves the dye and also cools the fabric and dye down to stop the dyeing process.

If you do not have an outdoor area, then put a plug in to a stainless steel tub and rinse dyed tulle under cold water. This too will stop the dyeing process.

Repeat for the other side.

 

The fabric will be very dark. It will seem to dark. But tulle and some nets are made from totally clear monofilament. What this means that as it dries it will allow light through but also bounce white light back from the glossy surface. This will eventually turn the net royal blue.

This dark  tone in turn also makes the net even more translucent against your dress and the floor. It will then create very distinct lines of colour when pleated into crisp angles.

Note how the cape is quite dark while the snowflake designs are paler and very light reflective.

 

 

If you are nervous then it is possible to use half the dye pack for both lengths but still 2x colour enhancers. It will create a blue that is more what people expect her cape to be. In very close up details the cape fabric is indeed quite dark. The aforementioned physical properties of clear monofilament