Okay. I have finally decided on how to cut and how to line and what sleeves I want for my 1530s Spanish/Portuguese Court frock.

I’ve been sharing on instagram thanks to the new ability to use the browser version. So a bit of a summary. I’m trying to recreate a gown from one of the Nassau tapestries of Mencia de Mendoza. This cartoon is one of a very few depictions of these cloth of gold gowns that include the length of the over sleeves and even, maybe, a waist seam- or very small fold at the waist.

The portraits that include this kind of gown include Eleanora of Austria and her attendants and include more details around the neckline and higher. With two portraits of Mencia in non gold gowns there is quite a lot of information.

It’s just possible to see the hint of a trandazo in a few so that’s great. So bonnet, cofia, and tranzado. I love stacked headgear and with jewels there is even more fun.

The gown is probably a brial, there is a waist seam but the skirt is smooth. This suggests a cut with only a minimal amount of fabric through the waist and maybe a lot of fullness at the hem.

There are some hints in art that suggest a few different degrees of fit and length of the bodices.

I’m trying to work my way through some of Hispanic Costume at the same time.

I have some more references of portraits and the sleeves later. But I think I have enough to do another pattern theory test.

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