found it!

Full if very fuzzy views of Joke de Kruif’s Second Managers dress 🙂 I have to admit, I’d love if this version (or rather set of variations as each show starts with multiple copies then builds and has to change based on availability of trims etc) had a longer waterfall pleated train, but it’s a very effective treatment with that stacked trim. It reminds me a lot of a garment at LACMA:

This is the best photo of one of the dress but as worn by Michelle van de Ven:

The extremely rich fringing over gathered or extremely finely pleated ruffles make each part very distinctive. And very easy to make out in very blurry images. And you can make out that the matching skirt has a straight apron drape, a feature on relatively few variations. Another photo of Michelle shows a different Dutch costume, though

So a fairly narrow skirt cut with a short flat train, a short bustle for a very vertical line for the pleats to lay on (the weight of these once lined and with trim is quite a lot. The panier drapery is long, no ruffle, but that heavy trim, and an extension built in like a waterfall pleat but less flared that hangs to reach almost to them hem, and a shorter waterfall pleated drapery that seems to be split as the CB seam of the skirt can be seen when Christine flees the scene.

The photo of Michelle van de Ven answers how this was achieved so I’ll be for sure adding in how to work out pannier and apron drapes and ruffles as they all work in together. I even spotted a curve cut sleeve ruffle which is just… well explains a lot actually.

I’ve meanwhile stalled on my own costumes as I think I really need another layer of net over the iridescent organza and I am not exactly sure how much I need. I decided at some stage the pleats needed an extension to be as wide as the original Australian waterfalls. And I lost track of how many folds were in what costume.

I have that sorted now.

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