a new project

BY: Michaela de Bruce ON: 2024-10-04

*Galinda ting*

No but I have used all kinds of drafting systems over the years, only to find my draped pieces universaly work out better. Not just to a modern eye, but I get a much closer fit to the originals. Whether on me or laid flat.

So drafting systems need a lot of work to do what they promise.

Do yourself a favour and grab both the high res and lo res copies of this book. One for a little reader, and one for full monitor zoom.

Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers’ Drafting Systems in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia B.
DOI: https://doi.org/10.5479/si.00810258.42.1
Date: 1979

https://repository.si.edu/handle/10088/2441

And if you are still sure drafting works this little nugget my help “In the last quarter of the 19th century, hundreds of drafting systems were invented to help the professional dressmaker cut the complex patterns of the fashionable dress of the period.”

Hundreds.

I love collecting them in part to match patterns of extant garments to work out how well they were used the time.

And there are some books that I look at and just sigh in bliss because I can tell from one page just how well the test pattern and the approach will work in general.

I really want to do this a series- one mannequin all the systems. Because you should not have to rely on be the idealised body type for a system to work..

But I also collect all the patents of the pattern tools (one even in 2004!) So I’m pondering if I could make one.

There are some rules in the tailor manuals after all (actually, all rules, not much freedom.)

I think I can do this. But I think my blend of drape and draft works well.

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