THIS!!! This is it!

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/11421/hands-on-with-kleibacker-lessons-for-working-with-a-bias

Lesson 1 – Fabric cut on the bias is not symmetrical.
A-FREAKING-MEN!!!

Lesson 2 – Pin and slip-baste from the garment’s right side.

Holler! No but really this is why I have been pinning from the right side.

Lesson 3 – Fabrics cut on the bias either have “drag” or “lift.”

My fabric mostly drags but there is a bit of lift, and again based on the true grain or cross. Cross is draggy, Straight is lifty. Which is why a tiny dart changes the shape so much.

Lesson 4 – Ease a neckline by pinning it to a length of seam tape. 

I still need to do this but yes, I have mentioned I need to. By the way do you see how many pins to do that? Yes, yes you need that many!

Lesson 5 – Baste some bias seams before cutting, and stretch them while machine-stitching.

So this is why I hand basted the entire dress.

So yeah, this is advice from a designer known for his work in bias. It’s not easy! So worth all the extra effort though. And I know my darts will look better once clipped and pressed back. But because it will make such a difference I don’t want to cut before I am sure. But I won’t know which ones look the very best until I cut. This is why I keep procrastinating!