Harper’s Bazar, August 24, 1872
General directions for making corsets.
The present number contains patterns aillustrations for a variety of corsets of different shapes and sizes for ladies and children, and shoulder-braces for girls.
The manner of making the corsets is plainly shown by the illustrations.
The corsets shown by illustrations Figs. 1, 4-12, may be made of white or gray drilling, brown linen, black cashmere, or white, black, or colored silk.
Fig. 1 White drilling corsets [see Figs. 2 and 3] waist measure 18 1/2 Inches
Fig. 2 -Section of tab for closing corsets, Fig. 1- full size [see Fig. 3]
Fig. 3 Pointing and binding tab, see Fig. 2- full size
Fig. 4 Brown linen corsets 24 1/2 Inches
Fig. 5 white drilling corsets to baste in wrappers
Fig. 6 Corsets for child under four years old. Waist measure 19 1/2 Inches.
Fig. 8 Long white drilling corsets- [See Figs. 13-15, 17, and 19] waist measure, 24 Inches
Fig. 9 Short red serge corsets [See Figs. 7, and 13-18] Waist measure 21 1’2 Inches
Fig. 10 Corsets for stout elderly lady- [see Figs. 13-15, and 17] Waist measure 254 1/2 Inches
Fig. 11 Short corsets foe a young girl- [see Figs. 7, 13, and 17] Waist measure 20 Inches
Fig. 12 Corsets for a girl from 6 to 10 years old- [see Fig. 7] Waist measure 20 1/2 Inches
Corsets of cahsmere and silk are lined with drilling or shirting, while linen corsets generally are not lined.
On white and coloured corsets the seams are worked with thread or white silk, but on black and gray corsets they are generally worked with red silk.
In cutting the parts of the corsets always observe the lines for the lenthwise thread marked as ===(three vertical lines) on the pattern; where these lines are not given lay the straight edge of the material on the straight outline of the pattern, and besides this leave three quarters of an inch extra material on each piece where it is to be joined with another piece, as these pieces should overlap half an inch along the seams.
The upper and lower edge of the pieces are cut according to the outlines of the pattern without extra material.
Sometimes a piece of extra material from an inch and three-quarters wide is left on the back edge of the back, and is afterward folded on the under side and stitched down on the right side along the lines indicated on the corresponding pattern.
The eyelet-holes which are worked there are punched.
The joining seams are worked with two rows of stitching; to do this fold the edge of one piece on the wrong side and the edge of the other piece on the right side, narrow, then lay both pieces on each other half an inch wide so that the edges come inside, and join them on the right side (see illustration Fig. 17).
Fig. 17 -Joining edges- [see Figs. 1, 4, 5, 8, 9-11]
The gores, which are rounded at the points, are (set) under the corsets either with two rows of stitching worked on the outside or with one row of stitching and a hem; the latter is worked on the wrong side of the corsets.
The points of the bosom gores and the upper edge of the hip gores are fastened with button-hole stitching as shown by illustrations Figs. 13-15; this stitching is worked on the wrong side of the corsets without folding the edge of the material.
Fig 13. -setting in hip gore- outside [see Figs. 4, 8, 9, and 10]
Fig 14.- setting in bosom gore- outside-[see Figs. 4, 8, 9, and 10]
Fig 15. – setting in bosom gore- inside- [see Figs. 4, 8, 9, and 10]
On the wrong side sew the gores to the corset with a close cross seam without folding the edge (see illustration Fig. 15).
For the whale-bone sheaths, either backstitch a piece of the material of the requisite width, which is stitched through several times for the separate whalebones, on the corsets, along the dotted lines partly indicated, on the right side (see illustration Fig. 16), or else set a linen tape of the requisite width on the underside of the corsets, which is also stitched on the right side.
Fig. 16 -stitching strips for whalebone sheath [see Fig. 9]
Each whalebone should end from half an inch to seven-eights of an inch from the upper and under edge, but the tape and strips stitched on a generally carriedto the outer edge.
Fasten the end of the whalebones either with several long stitches (see illustration Figs. 18 and 19), in doing which insert the needle in a hole bored in the whalebone, or else merely work a cross row of stitching close above or below the whalebone.
Fig. 18 – Joining edges and fastening whalebones [see Figs. 9]
Fig. 19 -stitching whalebone sheath and fastening whalebones [see Figs. 4 and 8]
In order that the whalebone may not mark the upper edge of the corset, several pieces of cord are sometimes stitched in there (see illustration Fig 7). For inserting the busks face the front edge of each front with a linen tape, which is indicated on each pattern by a straight line. The upper and under edges of the corsets are bound with linen tape, worsted braid or silk ribbon.