Question time

So while my online demonstration of mold making is not really optimised as it’s slow going but here is a question:

Can anyone guess at why I have been trimming the edges of my molds? I just cut back not only the excess drip marks but also the thin edge left behind.

sm_dsc_0785 sm_dsc_0787

I am curious as to what might be presumed about this “extra step” 🙂

I’ll be posting a separate post once I have finished. But  few clues:

~ biggest clue- this mold is 50lbs (22.9kg)

~ I have seen professional mold-makers in action  so I picked up some habits used on large scale projects.

~ I have been making molds since.. well the late 90s (shhh) so I have a lot of experience in making and maintaining them (lots of experience at doing things in a rush as well as well planned)

~ think of these as objects in and of themselves as well as an intermediary object to make other things 🙂 And how you make the things from this.

~The mold is currently on the ground.

togruta vs togruta

These are two casts from the same mold. I love my Ashara but I basically made her from an imperfect cast. The mold had separated a bit making for blunt montral and the tops of the lekku was too thin so I cut them off. This leads to the montral sticking away from the face.

sm_dsc_0783 sm_dsc_0784

sm_dsc_0778 sm_dsc_0780

Just to show that Shara was an imperfect cast!

Again, my grumpy cast is doing double duty while my good cast has my horns 🙂

I am having a day of fatigue and turning it into a day of rest, and have been also having some antiinflammatories, which seem to be at least helping a bit so that’s great 🙂

#Ahsokatano progress

This works! I love me some smart bb and wp!


#ahsokalives first texture pass. I need to let it all cool so texture can be carved in. Atm it’s all smooshing. Overnight will do it by pinkdiamond, on Flickr


Yes! #maleficent horn texture and #ahsokalives #togruta skin marking success! Now to do this over the entire sculptures!!!! by pinkdiamond, on Flickr


#ahsokalives #ahsokatano texture worked really well! My camera has low res though so had to do a close up. Next stop, #maleficent2014] bypinkdiamond, on Flickr


#ahsokatano sculpt prepping for mold making. Built up as much support out of foam as I could and melting clay while doing so. I may want to clean all of this after! Definitely will be mixing in some other colours. Purple and blue? by pinkdiamond, on Flickr


#ahsokatano from the side. Polystyrene and clay support them clay wall. That brick red? 2.5 kg. There are 2.24 pounds per kg. I think there is about 6kg of grey clay. It fills a crock pot anyway.
by pinkdiamond, on Flickr


#ahsokatano 10kg of ultracal plaster, about. 3l of water, big guess there though, and the top of. The mold is made!
by pinkdiamond, on Flickr


#ahsokatano left to rest. I checked and it is cool enough to leave it be. While it steams it is prone to cracking but this is quite cool. The towels are wet to help this cure. by pinkdiamond, on Flickr

So after a very long period of no progress I suddenly have some? It’s all to do with working on my Maleficent horns. And having already cast my Draenei horns. I just built up my skill set from last time so was able to not only work faster but get texture details I have not managed before! Rounded wrinkles of a certain size have been the bane of my existence! I’m now finding them fun, so all the work that goes into them has a positive result which yeah- makes the repetitive nature soothing rather than stressful

 

Side note, I now have a drywall trade account (well not trade trade, just a normal account). None of the mold supply company stocks it. But it’s still used by tradies for buildings. So… what the heck! Seriously, I haven’t found it in more than a year at any of the SFX supply places. So I grabbed the 22.5kg bag while it’s still in the country!

Maleficent sculpt progress

I haven’t shared here, I have just been so tired after sculpting (it’s full body, standing, sitting, holding- something this size and floating in the air? yeah you need to use your whole body!)

The latest huge 10 update has also changed all my import settings and my phone is not happy! So I’m still waiting for my images to import before going further 🙂

October 8

sm_dsc_0633 sm_dsc_0656 sm_dsc_0670 sm_dsc_0638

After reshaping the polymorph frame using a heat gun:

sm_dsc_1110 sm_dsc_1112 sm_dsc_1108 sm_dsc_1109

October 9th:

After cutting back the polymorph with a dremel. Note the horns are so long the ends look disproportionately large from the rear view.

sm_dsc_1190 sm_dsc_1192 sm_dsc_1194

October 10th, more cleaning, more reshaping of the flare.

sm_dsc_1209 sm_dsc_1207 sm_dsc_1208

October 11 even more subtle shaping- mainly of the extra horn supports

sm_dsc_1226 sm_dsc_1228 sm_dsc_1225

Detailing the supports more aggressively

sm_dsc_1274 sm_dsc_1278 sm_dsc_1279

And then to show why I have been taking photos up close despite distortion, it’s more detailed 🙂 My phone does not like even lowish light. But here you can see the horn tips really are not like bunny ears!

sm_dsc_1284 sm_dsc_1285

wow, it worked!

malhornsmodel malhornsmodel2

malhornsnotexture

That would be a 3D scan of my horns created from about 40 photos from my plain old DSLR! I have yet to find the “remove everything but the selection” to remove the background of my workroom but.. but.. I may be able to tidy the sculpt and more the table more centrally in my room and then mask off the walls. the few errors in the capture of the horns has a lot to do with not being able to get to the back of the stand.

It did take all night, and I may have to make sure the model doesn’t accidentally wind up published but yeah. I can probably also scan the head cast for fully 3D sculpting! And I will be able to get my hands done too 🙂

Wig frankensteining

I have three lace front wigs that were not entirely perfect. The first was just a size too small for my head, the other two were slightly too dark for Elsa.

Step One: A new wig cap.

 

sm_dsc_0929 sm_dsc_0930 sm_dsc_0931

This is a strip of high quality powernet (the rest is set aside to redo my Pink Diamonds costume) with the lace top and strips from one of the wigs I cut apart. There are strips of the wig powernet in peach on the sides.

Step Two: Add the lace front to the nape of the neck.

sm_dsc_0954 sm_dsc_0928

I added a strip of stable net and lace to the nape, to help support and reduce stress on the delicate net. This is to disguise the wig fully and the hair can be styled up or down.

sm_dsc_0932

This is the interior view of a strip from a lace front. It is curved and has the front lace clipped already.

sm_dsc_0974

It does blend well.

Step three: stitch lace fronts in

(no pics, as this was a process of frustration and photos that don’t illustrate this well enough!)

Step Four: add wefts

sm_dsc_0975

This is ongoing, and I’d also like to add a couple more lace strips back in to help stabilise the vertical stretch. Start from the bottom to avoid having to flip the wefts out of the way.

And more molding process with ultracal

Yesterday I built up clay walls and supports for the horns. I made sure to really support them as the ultracal winds up very heavy during the molding process.

sm_DSC_0447

Here you can see the shallow keys cut into the clay walls.

I used a brush to apply the product and so totally was unable to get in progress photos! Anyway, I mix and apply with the same 2″ brush so that the molds are nicely raised and evenly applied. And yes, there is a vertical lay up element. This is possible because ultrcacal forms a gel like structure as it cures. So while there is a lot of slumping you can brush upwards and get it to stay vertical.

I usually use warm water to speed the curing process and so avoid slumping as much as possible however today I did not.

sm_DSC_0448 sm_DSC_0450

This process is messy and I did splash over the clay walls so I transferred the entire piece on to a wool blanket.

sm_DSC_0453

Here you can see how much clay I used to support the weight of the molds. I could only do this because it is winter and the clay is extremely solid when cold!

After this I used a small craft saw and a metal paint scraper to remove excess plaster. I normally do this earlier but it’s been a while!

sm_DSC_0455 sm_DSC_0457

I had to be careful as the plaster is still damp and so not at full strength. This made breaking off the very narrow pieces easy but I could also have potentially cracked any part of the mold that was fragile.

Draenei horns ready to mold

So I thought I’d share how I matched one side to the other 🙂

After tidying up the proportions I started to transfer the lines by using a divider (scribe compass.) I did this along the top section on the inside as well as the outside.

sm_DSC_0405 sm_DSC_0406

After that I used the needle point picker from my sculpting tool set. I pressed the long end across the clay to start and then matched to that line from each side.

sm_DSC_0407 sm_DSC_0408

sm_DSC_0409 sm_DSC_0410

 

And then I did a crazy thing. I took a paint scraper and pressed it in to the clay by a few mm using the edges to line up smoothly and precisely.

sm_DSC_0412 sm_DSC_0418 sm_DSC_0419

This deep but narrow line was then beveled with a silicone tool

sm_DSC_0424

 

This was imperfect so I spent some time buffing the surface with a cloth in one direction.

sm_DSC_0396 sm_DSC_0398

 

After this I used a large smooth bristled paintbrush dipped in vaseline to further smooth.

sm_DSC_0432

 

Now that I have set in for the night I can see the last bit of evening up I need to do!

sm_DSC_0433

Multiple horn making

27950154922_53e22d0746_o 27998052936_aa22359f81_o 27749069240_b65d22d48a_o

Currently working in three fandoms. While each set of horns is being made in clay I am using slightly different techniques to support them. I’m also hoping to find some way to scan these, though scanning is very expensive as there are very few people with them as opposed to printers!

The weather has continued to be very chilly, which is perfect for sculpting in oil based clay. Well for me 🙂 I much prefer carving so pressing clay, I find I have much better density control if I can carve.

Oil based clay melts in direct heat, softens in indirect and then sets solid when chilled.

When working with chilled clay I need to quickly wave a heat gun across the cold surface- our environment is very damp so a fine film of water can form which blocks the clay from sticking. When heated the surface gains a little traction and winds up bonding to the new clay much more firmly.

I heat my clay in a crock pot (dedicated!) and use a heat gun for spot melting. As this warms up and melts I can brush it on, as it cools down I can form hand molded shapes to press.

But the warm clay softens the cold so there is a limit to how long you can work before the bulk of the clay moves too far.

madame vastra side two

MADAME VASTRA SIDE TWO

by admin, January 29, 2015

Yep, masking tape to help measure 🙂 The tape is now gone. The lines are balanced but definitely individual on each side 🙂 hoping to get this back half done this week. But I am permanently fatigues and this is making time management difficult.