Yesterday I created a new spreadsheet of information as I realised that the Nordrhein is indeed different to Westfalen and Oestfalen. In quite remarkable ways.
I also spent time with the IPA (International Phonetic Alphabet) and realised that yes a pattern I saw is real. I’m still trying to use it to build an easy guide.
But today I want to get my own research into the spreadsheet as I worked out recently that yes I have a few independent resources.
I have also already copied an inventory and it’s on my site- private- until I get this big survey of information up. But my aim is the end of this week.
I recently shared the NRW images from the Christopf Weiditz “Codice de Trajes” having finally decided to trust his interpretation of the Julich-Cleves-Berg dress as everything else is so very good- clearly derived from either portraits or people.
But it got me really delving into the written texts I have. And to find more. And I have. But in order to put my new information into context I’d have to transcribe and reorganise the information that hca come before. SO that’s why I have been so quiet this week. It’s been bulk copying and editing into tables and different formats.
And I am very glad I did.
Some of what I have done has been to understand why two main sources of research divert over a few terms. It’s been a long road and with a lot of turns and loops back to where I started but I think I finally understand it. In the context of the area and the rest of dress of the region.
And it’s quite exciting as I hope that figuring this out means being able to actually find more information. My advantage has been the digitzation of information previously locked in libraries across the world, my disadvantage is in not being able to see in person some really obvious sources of information.
But I’ve been able to scan the entire dissertation I need for all the Nordrhein information which is somewhat different to the Westfalen information which is different to the Östfalen information!
What really came across was the ubiquity of many phrases across the entire region. There is a lingual connection right across and it matches up with what I have been reading about the languages in general. It’s all far too much to delve into in a blog post but it’s already been heavily explored so mainly I need to try and create a guide to finding information.
I also very much want to create a visual guide, as that hasn’t really been done. Definitely not combining the text with the imagery. But basically the text now reveals that those different garment treatments really do have different terms. And it’s something that is informing my choices in my own gear.
And once I have the Nordrhein sorted I will work through the Westfalen and Östfalen. Because those a text rich if not image rich.
I’ve been collecting all the references I can that I have seen in secondary sources so that I can look at them in context. In most cases I have found the full record and a handful of scans, and even transcriptions. It’s not always a perfect method for identification as personal records are especially prone to a kind of shorthand like this:
for wine and clothing….[amount of money]
But for long inventories and for state documents it is handy. I’ve been able to narrow a few terms down based on the order they appear in. This is true in clothing ordinances. Unfortunately I still haven’t found a clear full clothing ordinance inside the Nordrhein. The Westfalen one is fascinating, and there is a connection so it has been useful.
And I may be able to find more now that I have access to a few more guild and trade related items.
It is a lot to try and understand, and I am trying to not only find the names of items but to find out how they were made and sold. Or imported!
Well the most important ones anyway 🙂 My Nordrhein files are now sorted in such a way that I know where the inventories are, where the ordinances are. I have information about embroiderers and silk workers even!
Apparently I have 639 files, I think I have finally cleared the majority of double ups. Though I do have multiple scans of some books so I can find the best text to copy directly.
But I finally can say I think I do know what to use as generic terms for each clothing item and then give all the examples of alternative terms.
It took the week to do though. So many files. Also a whole bundle where two volumes were scanned as one so it meant having to dig around for indexes which could be at the start and middle or middle and end. That was fun..
But clothing ordinances! I have region specific, guild information, and I think the emperor’s 1530s. But I need a break, some pain relief and