by admin, November 14, 2014

Top; Athena Bead cornflower blue, cornflower blue Josey Rose sequin film, aqua green Athena Bead, ditto overdyed with iDye poly Turquoise.
Middle; Sullivan’s (29032- 9mm cup ivory with coating) dyed ditto, Maria George clear with coating 20mm sequin dyed ditto.
Bottom; Sullivan’s cup  undyed, Maria George undyed, Elizabeth Craft shimmer sheet (iris) ditto Turquoise.
Turquoise 3mm matte sequin mesh.

So I now just need to decide between film or ready cut sequins.

But over all I now most recommend solid pet/pvc sequins cut or uncut in white/ivory/clear and dye them to colour. It’s paler than anything easily available and so easy to get your materials stockpiled!

Elsa pattern base!

Elsa pattern base!

Luckily I have had heaps of experience with both parts in terms of drafting and draping 🙂 Key things to note are:

Most commercial patterns are a good start, however they almost universally make backs too deep. It looks lovely on a dress form but on a human it winds up a secondary anchor point. There are two, generally speaking- at the waist and under the bust. These are where you can put circles of elastic and they will stay mostly in place. In the case of the former because there is rigid bone above and below (ribs and hips) and in the latter there is gravity/friction from breast tissue that also acts as a physical barrier.

Of course this is far from universal and speaking as someone who has one anchor point in actuality it still helps to work out where they both are for any support layers- hidden stay tape, where you can a padding etc.

So, the back; extend and widen. You can use inner stay elastic to hold the back in place and then let the bodice float over that, but this is the secret to victorian corsets- they rise higher in the back than the front. That is in part due to the rigid boning keeping the shape from displacing vertically. This eliminates the old bra line issue 🙂

Anyway, the bodice I draped here started as a rectangle of fabric and I put in extra padding on my form at the bust so that I can make the bodice to fit over that then padd the inside to shape. But I really need a foundation to at least start cutting my fabrics and find the most natural places to take in or let out as needed.

Oh and no, that is not yet the final shape. It’s close because I’ll do as everyone else has and ignore how the bodice actually sits right at the waist at the back and sides and only dips below at the front. Why? It’s not entirely flattering. Elsa does not have big hips and yet even she looks distinctly hourglass because the shape pulls over the hips making them more prominent.

I need to decide on accuracy over flattering so I will need to get started asap.

Oh and further to the above and to the previous post about shapewear- I did find one glorious bridal gown at Savemart. It’s the perfect example of how the inner of a high end gown is a very different shape to the outer. It was however a really good example of how bulky our modern formal wear is. I have an 1890s bodice that is fairly typical of the time and even with velvet it does not add much bulk. The stays (flat steels) are super thin, my steel boning is about 3X the thickness.

The corsets I have handled have likewise been much thinner yet as sturdy. Apparently it is in part down to our modern fabrics just not being as strong as in the past (which means we wind up using bulkier fabrics for the same strength). I do think there is a tendency to use bulky material to begin with. The fuzzy boning cover material is one example. It’s on underwire as well. You don’t need it.

Elsa lining cut

Elsa lining cut


Found royal blue satin to line my fabric and boy does it make the sequins pop green!
But of course this is only seen at the hem, so i will need to still get the green on the sequins as per my vidéo in Feb.



by admin, December 8, 2014

I’ll need to tint a few more of the paler ones a touch darker so i can have a more gradual change. Will follow this pattern of overlay though, and then overlap from top to bust point as well. I do need to stabilise the net, i was going to omit the extra net layer but i think for ease of embroidery i’ll want some. So i’ll get some wash away stabiliser.
Meanwhile i get to make this sequin and net bodice layer lie as flat and stable as possible. So i undid a fair bit from this week. Sigh.



by michaela de bruce, August 11, 2014

I managed to snaggle some Madonna blue Dylon. They have the tiny pots again! Well not as pots but as sachets. So like the old silver top with colour sun packs, not the cold water dyes. Technically this is the right warm tinted blue for the Elsa cape. I had a rummage in my pile of stashes and I will have to switch out the fabric, I got some dye on a spot but it was a layered spot…. so…. meh.

I also got more sequins online and worked out how to layer my current fabrics to make the skirt and lining, yay! I’ll have to make all the seams as per the movie to make sure the fabrics stay nicely in line if I do, and also try and get a layer of super sheer tulle over the top to avoid catching. But there will be the right weight to the skirt. The reason my mind went to Mackie immediately is not just the sparkle but the weight you get in that classic beaded and sequined fabric. It swings, it flows, and slinks. And from the top to the bottom, not just at the hem. It may be worth watching a few Cher videos of her Vegas shows…

And I got some RIT colour remover to knock out the salmon of my viscose satin (used also for my Mina drapery lining) so I can tint that up to line the skirt and bodice.

I almost bought some large circular sequins to cut up but decided I may just wind up buying some already cut. I do wish I could get bigger shapes or that the sequin film I have was more durable but ah well. There are places to get wholesale bulk amounts but I’d need to really make sure about shapes and colours.

Also I grabbed some idye for my silk. My marroon silk should definitely dye, it has grippy but not waxy finish so should absorb the dye well.

The horns will be cut back a little more. With fitting so well over the top I can cut in at the side. But my head cast then does need to be cut back a good 6mm in on one side! So yes, I’ll have to do that later as well 🙂

Looks like my local hardware store sells aerosil! But it’s labeled as glue powder so I need to check it out online, because hooray if it is just aerosil!