Elsa liveblogging 7 I think
Seems to work for tumblr otherwise sorry, I’ll edit the code later. Going a bit dizzy with the sparkle.
Seems to work for tumblr otherwise sorry, I’ll edit the code later. Going a bit dizzy with the sparkle.
I have taken the bodice shell off and so have repinned the skirt ready for some tacking stitches down the vertical seams and the hems. So far I have zig zagged the hems with an inch gap. This is to allow me to turn them in and hand stitch in place. I’ll o a ladder stitchthen another stay stitch an inch above. I need to try the bodice on again but I can’t face the spanx nor the weight of the dress right now. I should be able to at least sew the bodice in places and so be able to clip the extra skirt length off the top. Also with the inflamation in my gut but also the um.. lack of solid food for a week I am really not the shape I was a few days ago even so I do not want to fit right now either.
The bodice shell has been taken in properly ready for the seam allowance to be clipped off and the edges flipped open and tacked to each side. Tiny seam allowances tiny tiny to avoid bulk.
I also got a pattern made of the bodice shell 🙂 It’ll be accurate for the tulle but I’ll also grab the mock up to get the pattern for a plain fabric.
I also cut an extra layer for the shirt, so that’s being repinned and reshaped- the second layer will go underbust and is used to stabilise the body. I want the neckline and sleeves to be sheer and soft.
The bust enhancer is lovely in the bodice. I’ll do a page on them later. Basically small busts are not easier to deal with for self supporting bodices, they just require different engineering 😉 So my bodice support lining looks feather light except for the padding! At least, I should say not easier when you are trying to achieve a specific look.
So, still a bit to go but I can do a seam a day if need be :0 FAR FAR AWAY BIRTHDAY!!!! WOOOOT!!!!
Not totally! But with the repeated delay in being able to handle wearing a costume I have undone some of the work I already did. Now I can implement my plans for the bodice and sleeves and all the rest 🙂 So I’ll be taking the shell bodice off and getting photos of the very well supported inner piece (with bust enhancers and every thing).
Right now though it feels like a norovirus mixed with flu, so totally not feeling any desire to get dressed in anything other than singlet and yoga pants right now! Probably won’t until well in to the new year unfortunately. It does mean the antibodies are working- they knock out a specific set of B cells so not only is there a reduction of protection against certain bugs but also that current attack is leading to massive cell death which means lots of nasty waste making me feel sick without being sick.. or maybe.. anyway.
Time for some paracetamol, metamide, and an ice pack for my head.
I am covered in them. well the carpet is 🙂 My new Elsa fabric arrived and it will work exactly how I want it 🙂 So long as I can dye it 🙂 But I get to do that tomorrow 🙂
I am seriously, seriously liking having something so nice to work on 🙂 Don’t get me wrong. I loooove my Maleficent. I love my Shae, I love my Regina. I love my Jedi, and MINA!!! But frankly only a few grown up fellow geeks appreciate them- on any level.
I am being a bit selfish in that I really want to just have some fun and happy moments associated with costuming 🙂 I feel so on the outside of things. My femshep? Blood Drgaon armour. Which not many people recognise. Not even with Mr Boo! But kids loooved the giant Black Widow prop! So…
But really seeing kids just speechless with delight with my stunt Elsa? That was magical, for all of us. I’d like to feel like I deserve that response, hence the efforts in dying and cutting sequins and fabric. And frankly I have fewer pretty costumes than I am assumed to have 🙂
That said, pain, lots of pain. Though I am confirmed for my next set of infusions 🙂 I probably could have done with them earlier, basically the medical system really is more reactive than proactive.
I posted much of this to Tumblr as a video of the behind the scenes got blogged. And wow. What a beautiful job they did. They really did 🙂 Both Anna and Elsa were beautifully crafted and the fabrics were stunning, absolutely beautiful in texture and fit and making real what wasn’t 🙂
I admit to falling in love with this gown just a little bit more and it’s keeping me on track with my own. I can’t afford the fabrics used, but it’s pretty much what I thought. My thought process was “what would Mackie do?” But I probably should have thought “what would Eduardo do?”
So, just briefly Bob Mackie is a designer, very well known for creating gowns for divas, Cher being perhaps the most well known. Super super vibrant and sparkly but almost solely in bugle or double cut beads on a silk ground. There were even a range of exclusive Barbies produced!
There were two fabulous behind the scenes videos that were released. With a fabulous huge moniter and high resolution youtube I managed to stang some great screen caps that highlight the gown with an eye for costumer geeky details 🙂
First of all, the gown is in two distinct parts that blend so well. A boned and fully supported bodice over a lined skirt- fitted but with great drape. The fabric of both parts are made with the same fabric as a shell and all of the same pale cool blue:
As mentioned the body of the gown is overlayed with a sheer chiffon over a fully supported bodice and gently flared skirt. The cape and undershirt are made from a silvery knit. Not confirmed as being the dame fabric however stills show the cape is unhemmed at the sides (and some rolling of the side hem) and there is the same speckled silver effect. They may not be the same but they are very similar.
The beaded fabric is silk chiffon with a regular repeat of lines of chain stitch holding clear Ab bugle beads. The AB (Aurora Borealis) effect gives extra dimension to the refracted light and helps blend in the kind of sparkles of the skirt with the bodice- the bodice has many flat rhinestones of a variety of sizes.
The bugle beads are of a regular size and alternate in placement in each row.
The sheer bodice fabric is a slightly warmer tone of blue with a fine silver thread knitted in. It is a mesh but is knitted for a close fit and with very fine and narrow seam allowances.
The sheer bodice has chain rhinestones at the neckline (flat silver backs in a clear-white plastic base) and individual stones scattered over the bodice. The rhinestones on the bodice and cape are a mix of flat silver backed as well as AB coated flat round sew on types.
The shoes are a pearlescent blue leather with a satin finish.
The cape is sublimation dyed, so is likely a silver/white base colour and the blue is printed on. Sublimation dyeing uses a dye rather than paint so this makes the most sense.
The bodice has an underlining to the sheer fabric and is fully shaped and supported. It is slightly bigger at the top of the bodice to allow for movement. It is possible to see the width when the actress raises her arms.
The fabric shell is underlined to support the sheer fabric, this is obvious at the bust seams where there are no seam allowances visible.
The fabric shell however appears to not be boned, but a separate lining does appear to hold the bodice up. There is no boning visible.There appers to be a waist tape to hold the bodice in place as well as accentuate the hourglass effect of the bodice.
The back of the bodice dips in to a short V while the front is deeper but less sharp. The bodice also sits lower on the hips than the original film version, in part as it is more flattering and in part makes for a much more stable bodice that can be more easily fitted.
The bodice back is considerably lower than the front and the fastening appears to be a zip up the centre back and hidden by the cape.
The cape is a good half circle in basic shape but made from gores that taper from the bodice to the hem. The seams are incredibly fine and narrow and there are three at least. It is very gently eased to the top of the bodice and draped based on the stretch of the upper curve and the flare of the seams. The hem extend from the sides to the back into a train, it is considerably shorter than the film version
Like the film it has seams that follow the diagonal lines of a raglan sleeve, leaving the shoulder and top side of the arm seamless. it is likely the undershirt is a bodysuit as there s a clear centre back seam but no room for an invisible sip. It also stays very well in place and with no wrinkles under the arm. This suggests it is anchored well, which is most easily achieved in a stretch knit with a bodysuit/leatard type fit.
Just some screen caps, fabric and seam details.
To note especially:
Also note, the shredding of the hem of the skirt. That is what happens with this stuff, unfortunately. So if you are going to go the couture fabric route remember that $1000 skirt will shred like the blazes as it was not meant to be dragged on the ground.
Yep, standard width silk chiffon with beads, many lots of dollars for the base fabric but sigh.
Sub dye? Yep, you can get that done many places. Not saying to use the design.. just the method… It’s basically printing, like with an inkjet printer:
Heat and pressure are used to transfer images from an ink jet printed paper negative, to the fabric.
And it is best on polyester fabrics… Not that it will get you the silver print, but you can get full width opaque printing done as well.. *edit* I think the silver is part of the fabric and the sub dye is for the darker blue areas, but if you wind up needing a foil print type effect due to where you are what you have available it is an option. Better done as in industrial job than trying to weed sheets of vinyl foil at home…
So kind of the opposite of what people have been doing at home. Sigh, now I want to see if I can get a similar effect on my net.
And my previous notes:
Wait what’s that? Beaded fabric for the skirt? You don’t say… This is how the skirt has the same weight and yet flow as in the movie. The beads pull the fabric smoothly over the hips and then the weight makes the hem swish but also not flick about. I think it’s a standard chain stitch with the double cut bugles spaced evenly, and alternating. I haven’t seen the exact fabric but it is the standard method of doing beaded fabric.
Do not be fooled by the word “novelty”….
I wanted this in AB clear beads on white so I could ombre dye. But… The fabric plus shipping plus customs would be closer to $2000….
Just to give an idea of how how much this would actually be to reproduce….
Oh check it, raglan sleeve for the sheer top (which Elsa does definitely have) and I love how they committed to the smaller surface decoration on the bodice. Just doing it
I’m a big fan of how these work on TV. And goes to show how moving vs static images change what you see.
And I have my Elsa wig on the way as well as have set aside exactly what layers I want for the skirt and bodice structure. So, I will get Elsa done! but it will be a summer project
Hospital appointment, cortisol test and xrays of feet and hands, done!
So I also went to Spotlight, got more lining for dress two.
Got thread for dress shell, dress lining and sewing sequins.
Got sequins to test dye and also glitter in two shades of pearl. To match the two shades of interference powders I’ll be using 🙂 Oh, next step. Transfer all my resolene to a clean container with a lid as I have no idea where the lid actually is. So, to the sequins, then to bed.