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sunburst taking in

I did start to adjust the Sunburst skirt. But I am not happy at how the pencil is showing through. So I have enough left over to recut the skirt front panels and I can use bits of the current skirt fronts for the bodice. I’m not going to use a crepe for some of the bodice panels like in the original but then I’m using pearls rather than faceted beads for the clouds anyway (the original used cut beads the later copy uses pearls).

I’m looking forward to working on this one too πŸ™‚ The cutwork is daunting but I have a handle on it, this is one of the reasons I want to machine sew around the pattern- it’ll help stabilise the fabric.

I have my hair canvas petticoat to neaten at the top and a cotton twill petticoat. And bustle to make. Oh and sew up my corset as well πŸ˜‰

sunburst adjustments

So I did manage to bust out the Sunburst skirt and sew it up enough to start sewing over the pattern. But there are two thick blue pencil marking the width of one of the skirts which is narroer than what I went with. That said I can most easily rectify this but moving the side panels in to that line, redraw the pattern on the side gores.

And I just got side tracked from my hunt for the two Sunburst dresses in my reference art and tex> Latishhistoric> latevicrefs folder… So much yumminess saved from ebay and auction sites.
And even more in reference art and tex> Latishhistoric>1870s-1880sbustlenfbustle

Found her πŸ™‚ Yes the narrower skirt is right for this dress so I’ll do exactly that; take the skirt in at the front and add the pattern to the side gores πŸ™‚

Now to sort those folders out.

metropolitan museum site updates

It’s decided.

I am setting up my embroidery frame in the corner of my room and I shall stall get my Worth skirt done by the end of the year.

To spur myself a little bit of a reminder of the madness of the project:
On the left.

And I just read my email from the Met:
American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity
May 5, 2010–August 15, 2010
Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Exhibition Hall, 2nd floor

Sigh. A few images:
Cycling suit, squee! So very cute and yet such functionality and clean lines.
Cycling suit, a little more utilitarian but with a very simialr set of details.
Grecian Goddess evening gown. Exquisite draping.
Sweater, total flail and squeal. KOSHKA_THE_CAT posted this earlier. Sooooo adorable.
Dragon dress, film costume fromt he 1930s. Using the zoom function on this baby πŸ™‚
Jean Phillipe Worth ball gownwheat motiffe. Look at the shape of that bodice. Incredible. Just like the artwork with the long line and thrown back shoulders.

And a few from the Costume institute database.
Quilted stomacher.
Straw hat, 17thC
A knitted jacket, 17thC
Mantua, mine want need! Still πŸ˜‰ Along with all my other favourite mantua πŸ˜‰
Green Bodice. Someone needs to make this!
Pale blue brocade bodice.
Bodice with a tail πŸ˜‰
Quilted bodice
Pink tights, with toes πŸ˜‰ I;m guessing circus costume?
Metal wheel roller skates! Pretty sure with the scale they are meant for a doll πŸ˜‰
Not sure what to wear? Bright pink or bright green stockings!
White peacock feather fan.
Quilted gown
Pink and red corset with blue hip pads πŸ™‚
I’m thinking informal outerwear rather than corset?
Gloves in pink or blue!
Stripy stockings, red and navyblue/black
Gorgeous bodice with fine smocking trimming
Whiteworked Anglais.
Transitional to the Chemise gown? Ditto?
Love this! Pretty sure the pattern to it is in Waugh’s book. Seeing it I love it and want one. Reverse smocked trimmings and all πŸ™‚
Hmm it might actually be this one in Waugh..
Crazy cute gaiters.
Same dress, but one has a short bodice worn over it of matching silk.
I love stripes πŸ™‚

Okay, are these from the same garment originally?
Apron, “stomacher” From the same bequest so I suspect so. When I saw the apron I thought it looked a bit like a cut down skirt. This “stomacher” looks like it was a pleated back.

And I have quite looking at 1800 so will go back another day. Page 142 for my reference.

One of the reasons I neeed to get to NY.

catch up, to do

I found my turquoise cotton net πŸ™‚ A boil with pre-dye in the morning and it shall be all set to be ironed and pinned in place to the back of the skirt panel. I am not sure if I should leave it in one big piece or to cut it to fit. I would be able to use a smaller piece that way and still have a cute little regency overgown out of the rest.

I also took four renaissance dresses and nearly all my accessories and patterned them. I am nearly caught up with my SCA garb to be miniaturised into scale diagrams and then I can start on my Victorian stuff πŸ™‚ I am not looking forward to pinning and marking out the bodices but so it goes.
So I did:
Anna Meyer
Koeln blue wool
Koeln red linen
Westfalen stripy
four kleyrn (velveteen and gold border, velveteen, wool, heavy linen)
two pairs fitted sleeves (reversable silk, linen)
heuke
stickelsche

Not bad for one night πŸ™‚

I have my two schauben and kirtle and maybe a few hemden to go.

I’ll definitely do my Lizzy dress and Wishing dress (which was patterned like this anyway but I seem to have lost the diagram…) I have done the sleeves of my 1830s dress already and have my test pattern for the Sunburst dress too. Not sure how many of my media recreation items will work in a 1/10 scale. Not many anyway.

I am debating on how to repair this dress:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/1876voile.htm
I should use black velvet to repair it I know. All the black has been removed as it got rather ratty after being washed (post fire). I was thinkign maybe a dark blue but I do think the black velvet worked very well as a contrast.

sunburst tracing

Well I spent the afternoon drawing on fabric but I do finally have my beading layout transfered to the back of the fabric πŸ™‚

The dark blue vertical line is where the original seam was. I shifted it out a little as it just balanced a little better that way on me. The two dresses have seams in different places anyway. It is however a good 10cm narrower each side than I originally cut. And the reason it looks like a cotton is because the satin lost so much body when washed (which it needed in order to be decoloured) that I had to back it with a fusible fabric. I used solidot or whatever it is called. A much better option than most but still a little annoying πŸ˜‰

The pattern is off centre but balanced on the whole. I shall probably add a little more in the way of clouds near the bottom right hem.

So tonight I shall hunt out my pieces of netting and see what is suitable and start sewing the various lines. I may be lucky and not have to do the clouds as well as the rays of sun if the fabric is at all transparent when working it on the frame.

Oh and here is the bargain frame I got:

I think I will cut off the top (above where the frame sits) and use the wood to create a pocket for the sides to sit in so I can easily break it down to slide in beside my wardrobe πŸ˜‰ But hopefully the next photo will show beading happening!

sunburst scaling

Fantastic πŸ™‚ Thanks to an online tutorial I now have a grid for my skirt pattern πŸ™‚ Thanks to myself it was tweaked to be a useful grid pattern for scaling πŸ˜‰ Thanks also to myself I have a scanned scaled image of my skirt pattern and can now apply a grid to the back of the skirt panels and transfer the design!

I will probably head to the local shops in the morning and get some chalk pencils to do this. A set of three so I can use the pink for the grid and blue for the design. And then very soon after that sew the design with my machine.
I may have to stitch the net to the back of the sun bursts before sewing the pearls in place. Just logistically speaking. And then do the pearling then beading and then clip the satin away from the net.

And before then i’ll find some yellow fabric for the interlining to show through the net.

victorian musings

I have a giant embroidery frame πŸ™‚ Well not giant.. 80cm by 50cm kind of big πŸ™‚ Big enough that I’ll be able to do my skirt panels for my Worth gown and my applique for the hannibal skirt and the applique for my Han-fu πŸ™‚

it is made from the remnants of wood trimming from the rebuild of the house and some 1/8″ bolts. I’ll pad it up in the morning and start work on the Han fu then πŸ™‚ I’ll also have a hunt around for my heat n bond and red velvet to see if I can get my hannibal applique shapes worked up. Speaking of which, I do need to hunt for the cale diagram I did.

I’ll be drawing my Worth skirt design on the back of the skirt panels and free handing the design with my machine, all the lines where the beads will go. This will give me the advantage of making the fabric even more stable, make the cuts more stable and leave no marks on the front of the dress. Brilliant πŸ™‚ I’ll use tailors chalk as it will rub off fairly quickly.

OK while my computor and modem reconnect I shall go doodle and get that sorted.

Oh and bloody flickr. Those pictures were actually about 4000 pixels high so I’ll get cropping as you could see the stitches even. Nothing about scaling images in the pages where you upload, and I didn’t see any obvious links regarding it. So I’ll go hunt out further in their T&C πŸ˜‰

I’m thinking about that strawberry bink and black velvet dress in harper’s Bazaar too. I have some ice blue fabric that could be really pretty made up that way. Ooh or my red cotton sateen.

Right. Big list of fabrics I have and projects I want to do coming up soon. Then I can shed my stash and focus on what I love πŸ™‚

Connection restored after an hour and some doodling πŸ˜‰

sunburst- pink version

http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1770/05-007716_a

Sadly the photo does it so little justice, you need the Taschen book to really appreciate how stunning the trimming actually is.

Noooooo!!!! I just realised something:
http://www.kci.or.jp/exhibitions/index_e.html
Japonism in Fashion, New Zealand
Jul. -Oct. 2003, at the Museum of New Zealand, Te papa Tongarewa, Wellington
Dec. 2003-Mar. 2004, at the Christchurch Art Gallery, Te Puna O Waiwhetu, Christfhurch

I know I wanted to go and now I really wish I had. I think “my” worth gown would have been in it πŸ™ Well Worth’s copy of his own gown but in pale pink rather than pale yellow and with c1893 huge sleeves πŸ˜‰ But the embroidery was the same.

pout.

oooh:
http://www.wacoal.jp/c/kci/2009/02/dresstudyvol552009.html
DRESSTUDY Vol. 55 (Spring 2009)γ€€38p. 500 yen +S&H fee: 200yen
・CONTENTS
LECTURE: Luxury in the Western Culture by.Koichi KABAYAMA
Bourgeois Luxury in Seventeenth-Century Germany:
A Costume Collection in the Hessisches Landesmusum Darmstadt by.Johannes PIETSCH
πŸ˜€

francaise

Just put in some appropriate tags for the francaise and the worth gowns. So I can keep track of all the ideas I have had for them both over the last few years πŸ˜‰ I know I have more posts I just can’t find them all as I probably used dates for the 18thC gowns rather than terms.

MODEHISTORIQUE fairly recently posted a link to a sheer Francaise sold on Christies (visit her journal and check out the awesomesauce before looking for the link). The description of it mentions muslin and I was really thrilled to see it especially as I had wanted to make a muslin francaise a while back thanks to the one in the V&A. Sadly the only photo they have online is a closeup of the net trim. Historic Fashion in Detail has a line drawing (where the gathers of the panniers are apparently on drawstrings) and a large image of the trimming on the skirt. I really want to find a photo of the full gown.
What is interesting is the Christies one looks to be intended for formal wear while the V&A one is much simpler and possibly less formal. I am certain I found some examples of texts from the 80s that were also cotton or sheer cotton. I can’t find them in my journal though! I do have my lovely sheer voile that was going to be another 1870s ruffly dress but I think I think I’ll look for an organdy substitute for that instead so I can use a heavy bobbin lace for insertions in it.

Oh and I also salvaged some cotton lace, proper fine machine made lace not heavy bobbin πŸ™‚ Will swap it for some of my poly and nylon stuff as it was for the Trash to fashion kids. Seriously they can cut the cheap stuff up not the vintage!

My current test dress (the blue striped francaise) will hopefully have comperes made from the same fabric and then the petticoat and trimming will need to be hunted for in my stash. I am sure I have some.

Still dreaming of the KCI dress with the honeycomb smocked trimmings.. in sky blue taffeta. Sigh. (click the francaise tag to see how much too long I have waited to buy the fabric πŸ˜‰ it no longer exsists.)

test fitting

Hooray! Photos with flash, good for colour not so good for looking pretty πŸ˜‰ Good also for showing seams and textures πŸ™‚

So..

Sunburst Gown:
Skirt front, side and back. Train pinned over as well.

I got 6 or so yards from eldawen and I still have about 1.2m of a half width left to make the bodice from πŸ™‚ So yes, it was plenty, and I got my full train out of that as well.
Yeah, the train is about 1.5m so the gored from and sides were cut from about 3m.. I think I did some creative topping and tailing of the pieces!

francaise:
Basic shaped cut and pinned together. 3.25m of fabric at 1.62 wide. I cut along the selvages to get the vertical stripes. I think this might have been curtain fabric that was ripped in half, wish I knew where the other half was so I could make matching pleated frolls. Still I can hunt out some that will blend in.
This was salvaged fabric that was on the way to the tip!

Han-fu 1:
Silk crepe georgette saree cut in rectangles.

This looks very plain right now, but wait πŸ˜‰

Han-fu 2:
Pretty much an irridescent fabric as it has two weft “colours” (gold for one pattern the ombre diamond in many colours for the other) and one warp.

Due to the extravagent nature of the fabric there is very little that needs to be done with it πŸ˜€