busy patterning

Hats of several kinds. I need to add seam allowance to some as I have added some to a few already. The aim is to allow them to be laid over each other to see how changing a few dimensions adds volume and where.

Next though I picked up some books from the library. I’ve had a few out before but wow, wow, wow, wow, wow! “The House of Worth 1858-1954″ is a book I need to buy for myself as it is wonderful for details!

So nice to see the size of the stitches holding the piping in place of this bodice.

And all these views of the electricity gown!

No more views of the Sunburst gown, I think what is on the Met’s website is it for the foreseeable future. But there are so many glorious images that help to understand just how very remarkable the House actually was. 

Right throughout there is a very clear consolidation of lines and patterns. They are stripped back as far as possible. That of course varies over the decades but generally this is very true. 

And there are good photos of plain tabliers with beading just like the sunburst (though of the more common type of floral and symetric patterns.)

patterning again

This year has just continued to knock at everything I thought I knew and I’m sort of left wondering what do I stand for, what do I represent?

This though I know. I know my patterns work, but I know they need a bit of work to allow other people to see how they will work for them.

Doing the hat pages first. I wasn’t sure how I was going to separate them but actually yes, individual plates.

patterning continues

Today I copied over 5 shirt patterns and 6 hat patterns to go into my book (double scale for some on graph paper and scanned, next step is to create the inkscape line art.) Now all that is really left is a partlets and a few puffed sleeve options. Oh and how to combine the skit and bodice patterns and finally a Nederlands style variation illustration so that it neatly combines all of these.

The shirts (hemden) needed a bit of work to make them easier to visualise changing sleeve and gore sizes but I think I managed it. Two plain, one high neck, and two gathered variations should cover everything.

And the hats fortunately are very easy to simply scale as there is so much gathering to fit.

I may change the url and name of the website section/book so as to reflect that these are just garments, the fact that they are based on my own wardrobe should not limit who uses them. The patterns are also intended to allow people to choose which parts to keep and which to switch out for a more familiar system. I am trying to give explanations for how the pattern shapes work in an historic setting and how they can be of use in a modern.

So yes it’s taking a fair bit longer to work on than copying my patterns directly. They aren’t intended to be directly scalable but I have had a chance to teach this and my victorian system and there is a definite wish for that to be so. 

updates are not linear

I think, I think, my site is now fully transfered to the https address. It was a very frustrating day yesterday clearing cache across three steps between site and my monitor, so all links should redirect to the secure site now and now I just have to get google to start using the new links.

It was a day of great frustration and energy spent fixing something that really shouldn’t have been that difficult. But here we are.

I’m following it all up today as well. Trying to fix the error redirect as of course everything is now a bit not quite right.

The weather is not fully okay for being outside but it’s not too cold indoors even without the heater so I may just see if I can get part of my pattern book up. This means making a new template which I’m not entirely excited about. But it should at least offer a chance to have font changes for titles and for text.

Still got some Very Big Thoughts to get written up.

website updates

I have tried to minimise stylesheet issues today, so my site was looking a little interesting for a while there! 

I also updated my menu with the newer sections. This will mean being able to tidy those pattern pages up. And yes, this is all in aim of getting the new pattern book uploaded and a newer version of the victorian patterns. 

Content is one thing. It’s all the additional skills that need to be used in formatting for desktop/print/phone. I would love to get my branding in the menu proper but I keep breaking things when I try.

I still need to add a couple of new templates, right now the “eyne neue schnittbuch” section looks weird. But I love my branding so am trying to figure out how to really incorporate the different styles!

But it’s at least at a point where I can do all these things and not break it all again!


I am pretty sharttered from efforts from Thursday through Sunday. I was going to spend some time today working on #AhsokaLives but might instead just keep warm in the lounge.

I spent much of the weekend getting paper resources in order.  Prints/photocopies and even books. Though some books are still in the I have no clue how to actually store these things phase.

Keeping a few photocopies of patterns I own in book form so that I can keep them in my new inspirations folders. These are yellow.

I’m trying to decide how best to present them in said folders. But I am also trying to find a balance between projects I absolutely want to do and those I probably won’t do. 

The problem is that the images are all different sizes and different quantities. I have several early mantua patterns but only two photos for instance.

Ao I may just put in some old school hand drawn images.

Which remindes me… some of those very old references were tracings on tissue paper. I was on a super tight budget back in the day and yes, even photocopying was expensive- mainly they were books not within my own borrowing system- they were local but they also were not available via interlibrary loan. So when the councils merged I was one very happy book borrower!

So that is for today. 

But also I do need to get my notes on how to use my pattern book up and going.

And part of that is to get my new website section up and working. 

excited but very sore

One of the problems with living with a permanent pain and health condition is that there are very definite challenges to wellbeing of every state.

Right now I am in a great deal of pain. It’s my own fault, I accidentally turned powter to my PC off before the power was fully shut down * and so when I turned it back on it was a bit borked. 

I took the time it needed to self heal (which it does pretty darn well) and made the studio presentable. The back wall is now able to be used for photos 🙂

But the winter has been wet and the ground under the garage has definitely been wet and so it’s very musty. Possibly more than I could see as now I have some sniffles.

And then after my PC was all good I decided to continue the reorganising in my bedroom. I got all my drawings and prose in my pnk ring-binders which is nice. 

And I got my loose costume history notes put together and at least have my important documents in one place.

And finally all my cutting pattern book notes are in one place as well.

Today I am far too sore to even contemplate more time at my computer desk, but this means I can rest properly and not continually think on these messes that had been weighing on my mind.

Yes, taking this back to the opening paragraph. Wellbeing of the mind can be affected by more than the medical. It doesn’t always result in full mental health changes but can be unsettled by unresolved issues. Like having the studio being a dumping ground of Things for months. I can’t see it every day but I know it’s there.

Knowing that I can use that space any time I want to means I don’t think about it in negative terms now.

There has been a physical cost though. Luckily today I am in a position of using therapy I might not want to use all the time as well as therapy I do use most often (applied heat-not cold- and splinting.)

 * not sure what was still running- would be very nice for any process to keep the monitor awake

rest time

much as I’m happy to be getting to the end of the makeover of my pattern book, it’s taking a toll on my hands. The backs of my hands as well as under.

The tops of my hands feel over stretched while underneath feels cramped and swollen- only weird because the angle of my hand on the mouse is backwards not forwards.

I just need to now capture images of the different elements. Actually it’s fairly involved with lots of clicking so it will have to be tomorrow. I can’t really type right now.

working on my pattern book again

I took a very long break for many reasons. No need to discuss them now, but yesterday was a day of trying to create a new monogram that is appropriate. I wound up with a few nice options, two of which are in line with the monograms I have seen- based on block letters, one though is absolutely me. It looks good with the figures, I’m just not sure how well it works with the patterns.

Outlined figure holding a hand up towards her face, clothed in the style of 16th Century Cologne. Three variations of a monogram to the left.

The top signature is actually great in terms of flow and using supports of one letter for the other. But it is curly. The middle uses all my initials and even makes the small d of “de” between the M and B.

The last flips the B around so that it fits as a rectangle.

I may see if I can use the first as a basis for a more block letter effect.

Oh I have it! Right.. time to try again. But the curly letters are going to be used somewhere.

Marie Antoinette progress

I am refreshing the courier update page hoping to see my parcel of steel boning goodness escape the airport (released by customs!) I’ve not bought steel before. But I think I have a plan on how to use both the steel and plastic boning I already have. And the excess plastic will be used for a potentially larger lobster bustle for The Mina.

Marie Antoinette petticoat- rolls of cotton bobinette cut and ready for stitching together.
Marie Antoinette petticoat- a pile of pinned strips of cotton bobinette. 
marie Antoinette petticoat- rows of cotton bobinette strips pinned and trimmed ready for edge treatments.

So far so good. The petticoat will be covered in ruffles and I decided that as the fabric is very light that I would go for a 3:1 gather/pleat so as to really ensure a soft and fluffy layer between the gown and hoops.

Marie Antoinette stays- Two layers of bobinette each panel, hip and bust gores and a narrow cotton twill tape for boning channels. The tape is on the inside.
Marie Antoinette stays- hook and eye tape being hand stitched to the centre fronts.

I really wanted a zip up the front of the stays after the practice in making stays like this for Broadway costumes. I decided on hook and eye tape to minimise any disruption to the front of the gown to be worn over the top. It is also why I am not using a busk. 

There is such a delicacy to the original gown that is enhanced by the length of the bodice and the drop from waist to hips of the panniers. So I’m trying to help that effect from the inside to outside.

The other thing about this gown is that it is very narrow front to back even by comparison to the other gowns from the same film.