I have been looking through the various Charles James archives and having a blast. I’m not working directly from his system but there is one gown that looks like it will work.
Much as I’d love to use my circle patterning skills I think it’s going to be more effective to use rolled pleats- as opposed to stacked, though I could switch from one to the other if needed. Though it would be a glorious challenge. I can’t really test the pattern at a small scale like I would want to but it might help with deciding where to have rigid support and where to have soft.
I am very hesitant about the body. My sketch has a round waist but I keep coming back to a deep point with an Effigy stays shape- more of a nib to the front. Mainly because it’s a very comfortable shape for me even with my broken rib. Yep that still makes it tough to even wear a belt, so it means I need to avoid compression over my floating ribs. I think I need a bit
I think there will be a lot of chain bars between layers to to control fullness.