It is frustratingly difficult to search for books printed in Koeln of the first half of the sixteenth century and it should not be. This was a hub of printing and publishing. But still.
Des Kunckels odder Spinnrockens Evangelia vom Montag an, biß auff Sambstag, mitsampt den Glosen, zu ehren den Frawen beschrieben
Johann von Aich, 1557
There is so much going on here! And it’ll take a while to unpack everything except that this pretty much confirms a few ideas I had based on the sheer number of headgear items from the inventories.
Of note are the two wulst like headdresses (one in each plate). Please do note they are not simply rear view of the headdress iconic to this region, there are no wings. Weiditz gives us that view at it has a button on it.
Also two examples of a twisted unshaped headdress (second plate here) that looks for all the world like the type of headdress in the Lemberg finds.
There are also simple braids. So with the iconic headdress and these we are on track to this being a fairly representative example of dress the artist(s) knew.
But look at those kleyr! The circular cape like outer garments with little clasps are very 1520s but then look! Gathered kleyr (aka goller aka partlet)! With no centre front opening! And they are simply tied under the arms- or have a short narrow strip that is otherwise fastened front to back. But this is different to most woodcuts outside this region that show a section that fits under the arms. And there are portraits with this type of closed necked kleyr.
Also the mix of guarding- either deep or not at all. And all the rear fullness of the skirts. So good. I mean I knew, but it’s nice to have it on every single image that shows the side and back of dress.
And of course how can we ignore the pin on outer sleeve. Or it looks like a button. Pinned is more frequently depicted but given how few depictions we have of the sleeve on the outside I’m still hedging bets.
So I’ll continue to look for printed works from Koeln- note using the era appropriate “Collen” still doesn’t help look for books as I can’t get the boolean AND to work in Archive.org and there is a bit of fuzziness in google books when organising by date and I have mostly exhausted various universities.
But this is a wonderful addition.