frou frou

I haven’t shared to much of this side of my costuming interest- but I wound up collecting a lot of theatrical costume from the end of the 19thC.

Sarah Bernhardt, Lily Langtry, Ellen Terry, Elanora Duse, Adalina Patti, etc..

One of my all time favourite garments is a heavy brocade princess dress worn by Sarah Berhardt in Frou Frou. I bought a biography just for this view (though these images are from Gallica on BNF.

https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f27.item
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt_-_Sarony,_New_York._LCCN2005683956.tif
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f3.item
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f5.item
http://www.artnet.com/artists/napoleon-sarony/sarah-bernhardt-1844-1923-new-york-jOJcTGEItnibRip88ZGoYQ2

Some of her other costumes are found in Die Mode (Maz von Boehn) as is a portrait of Eleanora Duse in the same role.

http:/http://memoria-attori.amati.fupress.net/S1010?genere=2&idcollegato=1&contesto=1
http://memoria-attori.amati.fupress.net/S1010?genere=2&idcollegato=1&contesto=1

Of interest is that these two gowns are very similar in effect. Alternating rows of dark patterned fabric with an open worked material in a pale shade on the tablier.

And no sleeves.

And a high neck.

Meanwhile other costumes worn by Sarah include a gown with perfectly shaped swags all over the tablier. This has also been said to be of her in the lead role of Camille

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt,_Froufrou,_3695,_Photo_W._%26_D._Downey.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt_by_C.R._Savage.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:SarahBernhardt_alsKameliendame1881.jpg
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f18.item
https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f24.item

And finally a very frothy confection that also happens to have an example of the very long form of cuirasse bodice that doesn’t end in a point but instead sits on the legs. This has also been said to be of her in the lead role of Camille

https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f1.item
(I cannot find the original of this particular scan)

The first of the following paintings by G. Clarin is in Die Mode. I hadn’t realised it was indeed based on the real costume above.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Georges-Jules-Victor_Clairin_-_Frou_Frou,_1882.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Clairin,_Georges_Jules_Victor_-_La_Promenade.jpg