It took all day

But I am nearly back to where I was. I decided that I was too annoyed by the short back lekku to be happy. Side track to making a new stand for sculpting and I now have wiggly lekku- one attached two on the floor.

 

And so much mess.

 

So much.

 

But the back lekku has a layer of latex, there is latex grouting on the new montral seams (actually an older cast that was still in pieces) and I also templated a headband for her.

time to latex

I had a good start yesterday. Having experiemtned with many tools now I will be able to do a poper tutorial on making best use of latex under different circumstances.

I’ve used filler, paints, brushes of all kinds, and now it’s finally paying off. My lekku are looking good and my montral can be trimmed down today ๐Ÿ™‚ I tried to get video of the trimming process but had instagram fail. so to the camera and tripod!

I can also get some photos the laying up in progress ๐Ÿ™‚

Ahsoka plans

This is where I left her Montral. The lekku are the next on the agenda.

ย 

I have a cunning plan, but I have managed to move and misplace or actually corretly store so many costume elements this year that I am not sure where all my lekku making materials are.

Sadly probably no pictures while I actually do the work. Latex all over the place and latex cures super fast when in thin layers so it’s easy to lift finger prints or grab fibres from anything if I am not careful ๐Ÿ™‚ But it’ll be much the same way I worked on all my lekku.

So that is the plan for tomorrow- work out the lekku proportions and start marking the montral for seamlines with the lekku- I hope to hide the seam in the paint.

welp I was wrong!

So after finding the short cuts to delete selections and delete inverted selection I did isolate my horns in ReMake and I did then manage to get them into Sculptris and have been smoothing and pinching and generally finding it really pleasant. Intuitive I think.

Just have to remember that there is a limited number of times you can undo!

ย 

ย 

The brush is also cool, I need to see if I can change the shape not just size but the pinching, crease, and smoothing tool have done so much already!

And yes, I am building this as a symmetric piece so it may need care when I print- but I am inflating the base so that should give enough room to put in a foam layer for comfort.

today i try to relearn blender

I will still work in sketchup to make my Ahsoka hilts but I need something a bit more powerful than Sculptris or Remake to do what I need to do for all the horns.. I can’t easily find an ability to copy and take out selections in either so what the heck.

Oh sculptris looks brilliant for putting textures on, butย my Remakes models are the full scene when all I want is the head. ANd so I can probably use sculptis to make my own fantasy horns, my head cast and put them into blender and assemble in digital space.

I have tried to make my horns in Sketch up. it’s.. well the curve is a bit too complicated otherwise is is pretty easy to make a twisted cone. It’s the very particular curves of this sculpt!

Basically we are having our third severe weather event in just over a month so working on plastic and latex or anything that will be affected by condensation is not a goer today.

I will also work on my Worth beading pattern ๐Ÿ™‚ So excited ๐Ÿ™‚ All new post about that one too ๐Ÿ™‚

worth the difficulty

I managed to get a one month subscription to Autodesk Remake (not easy with geo-locking and my country not being specified, and then I wasn’t sure where in the app to put my code (hint- cog-> welcome screen.) but so worth it! I’ll do this again later in the year as I have so much clay and now have a good idea of what the scan will capture.

With 186 photos:

vs the 50 before:

So tomorrow I’ll attempt the full 250 in the backyard (currently a bit swampy- thanks bigย storms) as this is a marked improvement! Also I’ll possibly even be able to take the horns off my head cast and try them in total isolation as well as get my head cast done.

I may also see if I can get my hands photographed ๐Ÿ™‚

I am so wishing I was able to get the texture detail to work, it might make the model easier to capture in fact.

maley horns scan might work

I have been using @Autodesk @AutodeskReMake for a while. Just the free version while I practice how to photograph my models. I think I finally cracked it, and it’s almost certainly going to offer great results once I pay for the subscription and can send 250 photos not just 50 ๐Ÿ˜‰

 

So my very first test.

I can’t find my photos but basically I started with the head cast a little way from my far workroom corner and took photos with it stationary.

 

Looking at the model put out through different angles:

So here you can see the rest of the room was partially captured but the sculpt is well defined.

Isolating the sculpt and it’s even captured all the clay shavings! Just a few lumps in the horns but otherwise I’m impressed.

However I was not really able to get close enough in all angles around my sculpt to get decent shots of the underside of the horns.

 

So I watched a few more tutorials and a few suggested rotating the object rather than standing up and lying down to get angles otherwise difficult.

This was in the same place as before. The doorhandle looks mildly terrifying…

Still on the same stand and this time against a wall in better light. Well I have bricks!

So I painted the horns pink! And put them on a tall stand to really isolate them. Again the horns disappear and there is a great view of the wall.

 

Okay so obviously this sculpt needs to be static not moved around. I realised the back deck is often protected from harsh sunlight but offers good light bouncing from many surfaces. So to the deck with my pink horns on a spike and finally got this:

ย ย 

Lots of background but the horns are easy to isolate.

So finally some of the ridge detail is captured! But still quite lumpy.

 

Each model used the 50 photo limit. I do think with 250 photos I’ll be able to get all the detail needed.

 

So for a sculpt like this, of complexity of line:

Doย make sure the model is static. Do not rotate it for different angles, move yourself around instead.

Get it at a height where you can get images from underneath as well as on top and all around (for me this is about knee to waist high)

Get some photos with the full area around you as that will help isolate the model and put it in context.

Get some mid distance images.

 

Once those are done you can get in close.ย I have to reset where my camera focuses because I got a few where the point was on the deck.

 

But yes. I’m going to set up a few sculpts outside so I can digitise a good number of them. Shae for one, old Maley horns for another. And I’ll melt some clay and pour into some other molds to capture them as well ๐Ÿ™‚ I think with one month Subscription I can get a reasonable number captured. Heck I will even capture my Togruta horns for in case I have to move and my molds have to go bye bye. I may have someone who could take them on but I’m not 100% sure.

 

Barnes is here!!

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/

Henderson Auckland!!!

!!!!!!! I can’t really justify 27kg of the stuff but they have the S foam 130 flex!

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/s-foam-130-flex-foam-1392

This is what I used for my super squishy and very flexible Togruta headpieces ๐Ÿ™‚

It’s a bit tricky when you don’t have a perfect mold that includes headcast but this time I do sort of! This will make the foam fill in the space perfectly ๐Ÿ™‚ I can keep my molds!!!

 

Also this is not what I used but could be ideal for paint:

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/sc92-single-component-coating-1291