sewing day

I wound up breaking out the overlocker all day instead of working on horns. Which was probably wise. The rain is still leaving everything damp so curing would be risky.

So I zipped around the edges of my Worth sunburst skirt (the satin is so perfectly buttery that it was just nice to do!) and used the drafted bodice pattern from the 1876 tool to trace a new pattern for my new Phantom wedding dress bodice. I did use the vintage organza after all so that leaves some of the crepe for a potential Moulin Rouge dress. If I ever find a trim that works!

So that was tracing and transferring the pattern to a layer of twill, a layer of calico, and a layer of organza then overlocking all the edges tidy.

And then finally I cut the trim for my Cleves sleeves having removed the colour from the silk. And that leaves some softer trim for the undersleeves.

 

And finally, my last cast from my Ahsoka molds finally worked!

wedding gown musings

Sierra Boggess shared this image yesterday and can you see what has made me so excited? The fabric is thin. Well fairly thin- the flash and angle allows us to see her skin across the arm while the fabric looks more opaque closer to the armscye (where the fabric turns and follows the curve of her shoulder.) The sleeves are either unlined or lined with something very fine while the bodice is flat lined in a solid white.

I tend to double line my bodices and either not line or line my sleeves in a very thin material too.

Also if you follow the lines of the fabric on her sleeve you can see how very shallow the sleeve head is. This is both era appropriate and theatre appropriate as it means you can get your arms over your head. Notice the small wrinkles between shoulder and armscye? Yep. Modern patterns try to eliminate that by using a very tall sleeve head and that is what gives us limited arm range.

The effort to make a garment look good on the stand makes for a garment that is far less practical.

Anyway, just my thought process when I look at new/different images of the same garment 🙂 It’s all about the fit.

 

Oh and there is probably a bit of ease in the top of the sleeve head, I use three rows of stitches to do this rather than two as it does makes the fine gathers almost invisible.

Happy birthday to @andrewlloydwebber!!!!! So grateful you are on this planet!!!

A post shared by Sierra Boggess (@officialsierraboggess) on

 

HANNIBAL DONE!

HANNIBAL DONE!

by michaela de bruce, September 27, 2014

Except not because my boning poked through (so was removed) and I need to move the seams to actually work with the curves I do have and with the non curves. The boning sticks away from my waist, so I also need to knuckle down and nip in the waist again.

But I do still like my old rope skirt  and I love the overall Aussie feel to the colour blocks and proportion. Also bodice is fully multifunctionsal- the bust applique snaps off too, so Carlotta style upper can be done 🙂

For an idea of why it took almost a decade from the last version? Each row of trim on the bodice took 15mins. That’s the vertical ones. So….

The scarf is the new tour version. Yes. That is what it is. Yes. Ehem. I need to remove the dye from the ends and then dip dye in green then black and see if I can also wrangle in there some glold bars (no dye areas- silk goes yellow in the dye remover) and then find somewhere in Auckland with long fringe.

I will add little forehead curls. But more old school than new school tiny ringlets. The curls of the wig are big and soft and need a more subtle hairline. But OMG! Widow’s peak lace front wigs let people see the full expanse of my giant forehead! This is new!

Wig is from Wigfashion on ebay. The same colour- lovely chestnut with deep red highlights- very subtle but it warms the whole wig.

NOT EVEN RESISTING ANY MORE.

NOT EVEN RESISTING ANY MORE..

by michaela de bruce, September 23, 2014

So that red wig? Guess who has gotten her Carlotta on?

Inspired, yes, by Rachel Anne Moore’s interpretation (inspired by la Divina, Maria Callas) but also because the red dress Danielle Everette wore in Carlotta Side Story was just the most glamorous version possible (in part because she’s stunning and tall and so the lines all create this perfect vertical 188os silhouette- my legs are long so I can get a similar effect even if not as tall!)

Anyway. So I’ll be using my ruined Cleves gown velveteen for the velvet parts so as to recycle something I can’t wear now.

I also have 10m of magenta/fuchsia silk organza to turn into ribbon for the pleats.

And I’ll be making a second bodice for my Elissa gown.

And a fake head! Time to grab a male wig form and cover it with muslin! Opening cadenza at everyone!

So.. .. extra wear out of some of my projects 🙂

Hopefully I can do the bodice and wig soon and then the red dress next year.

ELISSA/HANNIBAL BODICE TRIAL

ELISSA/HANNIBAL BODICE TRIAL

by michaela de bruce, September 3, 2014

Angel of music,
Your final warning,
Stay away from my mind.
Angel of music I have a court order,
And I have friends in Star Wars.

Sorry, my costume wardrobe behind is just Mina and All The Star Wars props.

If she knows Shae, Erik, you probably should back off.

ELISSA TEXT UPDATE

ELISSA TEXT UPDATE

by michaela de bruce, August 26, 2014

I have bound the top and bottom with gold ribbon and the belt is actually looking good 🙂 So I’ll see if I can line all those applique pieces so they also look nice when taken off 🙂

Cold of heck is still here so I am seeing my GP tomorrow just in case.

Also, I managed three goes of Think of Me in a row with no fatigue in my upper range so I may be busting out my Mozart aria CD if I can find it and playing around with this new lightness (possibly due to the cold and how I am holding my soft palette and getting a lot of resonance in my nose proper- not nasal but I can feel the bones all around vibrate more than usual.)

The inner smile trick works, inner smile combined with breathing through a cold and yawn. Seems to be the trick 🙂

Oh also, I am now just down to a bucket of trims for the gown. Trims, not all the things to make, just the trims. It’s a 10L bucket.

ELISSA/HANNIBAL BODICE

ELISSA/HANNIBAL BODICE

by michaela de bruce, August 26, 2014

Front and back views of the upper applique snapped in place and the belt and lower appliques pinned in place.

I decided I did like the twisted braid after all and I’ll probably do a mix of Aussie and US styles here too: big stones and braid on the middle three seams. The loopy braid on the side and back seams.

 

I had to stop singing the cadenza at one point today. Yeah, but I managed a few scales as well and some good leg stretches (also if I support both hands I can still bend really far back and see upside down, so there is that!)