Printing woes

Well after the excitement of getting the printer to be aligned properly I am now in the situation of trying to make sure my prints adhere to the plate. The best point for adhesion is the middle of the plate, and my experience was that curling happened on part of the file that was printed first, it may be that point of the plate or it may be that it cooled too fast between whatever the slicing chose. So I took each component and made them a separate file:

Okay so a couple of couple of doubles that should be able to print without interfering with the print head (one file is missing from this screenshot)

So that was open in SKU, copy, open new, paste- move to origins, save as.

And then I exported them all:

That was open in SKU, export with plugin, type filename, click window ticky box, close window.

And then exported as gcode:

This was opened in Cura, click export to removable drive. So the fastest of the steps!

Much of 3D printing is this process. I think my horns will be easier as they are organic and I’m much less worried about fractions of millimeters shifting. But it will be a big project!

think things are sorted…

Only photos so far are of Ahsoka sitting nicely on my head next step it to decide if I want to make that rigid section permanent and how much shaped padding to put in. But having the support in place now means that I can actyally make that shaping 🙂

A post on different SFX techniques is needed I think..

But I found an older Mina bodice lining and I think I prefer it! Not as it is but umm.. I can put hip gores in just like with a set of stays so why wouldn’t that work???

And I also got ABS juice in my Leia molds! IT WORKS!!!! So far the back hip has been mostly cast and it is so light. A bit too light, I think the surface had enough dust that it got mixed in. That said this is definitely going to let me scan them to get them digitised 🙂 Now I just need to hunt down the missing collar piece. Very frustrating to have that missing.

 

And yes, the prednisode is making me feel freaking AMAZING right now. But it can only be temporary because of how it works. So much misinformation, I really want to do a post full of real research that shows what we actually experience.

whoops, fell into a research rabbit warren

In order to figure out history of the gown I wound up with dozens of reference notes about the production of garments and how there are multiple copies and why.

I still haven’t found the specific references I want (all secondary atm) but enough to feel confident in several statements made.

But there are some conflicting descriptions of materials, I have my suspicions about why so will also have to discuss those.

So yeah. I can now start the day and do things.

 

But I also will have my abs juice ready to go today and the latex work of yesterday will hopefully pay off today. Unless it didn’t adhere in what case I get to strip the base back and redo it. IsoPro does work but it is a PITA to time correctly. The latex needs to be clean and dry for the next layer of latex. But with a very damp climate there is a fine layer of moisture on anything outdoors- or in a room without insulation.

 

What else… Oh yes. I need to bleach my sateen panels for my 1870s gored stays. I worked out what I need vs the original pattern styles so will also see if I can make one in red sateen finally. I have tried to do this in the past and somehow wound up with stays too short.

What I need from stays is less about squish as it is about reducing stress on ribs. My current pain is a very good reminder! My ribs are very long, there is barely two fingerwidths distance at the side of my waist between ribs and pelvis. So this means if I want a wasp waist I either deal with ribs being heavily squished or I make it nip in only at that narrow point. Or I can avoid too much restriction and taper the stays to the waist then flare out over the hip.

This last one is what I find gives a shape that is both acceptable to a modern eye as well as historic. If I nip in only at the waisy it tends to make everything else seem disproportionate rather than drawing the line in.

So today will be spent cutting fabric and bleaching to have a summer and winter variation. There may even be enough silk satin left over, though that feels a bit extravagant!

 

sewing day

I wound up breaking out the overlocker all day instead of working on horns. Which was probably wise. The rain is still leaving everything damp so curing would be risky.

So I zipped around the edges of my Worth sunburst skirt (the satin is so perfectly buttery that it was just nice to do!) and used the drafted bodice pattern from the 1876 tool to trace a new pattern for my new Phantom wedding dress bodice. I did use the vintage organza after all so that leaves some of the crepe for a potential Moulin Rouge dress. If I ever find a trim that works!

So that was tracing and transferring the pattern to a layer of twill, a layer of calico, and a layer of organza then overlocking all the edges tidy.

And then finally I cut the trim for my Cleves sleeves having removed the colour from the silk. And that leaves some softer trim for the undersleeves.

 

And finally, my last cast from my Ahsoka molds finally worked!

today i try to relearn blender

I will still work in sketchup to make my Ahsoka hilts but I need something a bit more powerful than Sculptris or Remake to do what I need to do for all the horns.. I can’t easily find an ability to copy and take out selections in either so what the heck.

Oh sculptris looks brilliant for putting textures on, but my Remakes models are the full scene when all I want is the head. ANd so I can probably use sculptis to make my own fantasy horns, my head cast and put them into blender and assemble in digital space.

I have tried to make my horns in Sketch up. it’s.. well the curve is a bit too complicated otherwise is is pretty easy to make a twisted cone. It’s the very particular curves of this sculpt!

Basically we are having our third severe weather event in just over a month so working on plastic and latex or anything that will be affected by condensation is not a goer today.

I will also work on my Worth beading pattern 🙂 So excited 🙂 All new post about that one too 🙂

maley horns scan might work

I have been using @Autodesk @AutodeskReMake for a while. Just the free version while I practice how to photograph my models. I think I finally cracked it, and it’s almost certainly going to offer great results once I pay for the subscription and can send 250 photos not just 50 😉

 

So my very first test.

I can’t find my photos but basically I started with the head cast a little way from my far workroom corner and took photos with it stationary.

 

Looking at the model put out through different angles:

So here you can see the rest of the room was partially captured but the sculpt is well defined.

Isolating the sculpt and it’s even captured all the clay shavings! Just a few lumps in the horns but otherwise I’m impressed.

However I was not really able to get close enough in all angles around my sculpt to get decent shots of the underside of the horns.

 

So I watched a few more tutorials and a few suggested rotating the object rather than standing up and lying down to get angles otherwise difficult.

This was in the same place as before. The doorhandle looks mildly terrifying…

Still on the same stand and this time against a wall in better light. Well I have bricks!

So I painted the horns pink! And put them on a tall stand to really isolate them. Again the horns disappear and there is a great view of the wall.

 

Okay so obviously this sculpt needs to be static not moved around. I realised the back deck is often protected from harsh sunlight but offers good light bouncing from many surfaces. So to the deck with my pink horns on a spike and finally got this:

  

Lots of background but the horns are easy to isolate.

So finally some of the ridge detail is captured! But still quite lumpy.

 

Each model used the 50 photo limit. I do think with 250 photos I’ll be able to get all the detail needed.

 

So for a sculpt like this, of complexity of line:

Do make sure the model is static. Do not rotate it for different angles, move yourself around instead.

Get it at a height where you can get images from underneath as well as on top and all around (for me this is about knee to waist high)

Get some photos with the full area around you as that will help isolate the model and put it in context.

Get some mid distance images.

 

Once those are done you can get in close. I have to reset where my camera focuses because I got a few where the point was on the deck.

 

But yes. I’m going to set up a few sculpts outside so I can digitise a good number of them. Shae for one, old Maley horns for another. And I’ll melt some clay and pour into some other molds to capture them as well 🙂 I think with one month Subscription I can get a reasonable number captured. Heck I will even capture my Togruta horns for in case I have to move and my molds have to go bye bye. I may have someone who could take them on but I’m not 100% sure.

 

Barnes is here!!

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/

Henderson Auckland!!!

!!!!!!! I can’t really justify 27kg of the stuff but they have the S foam 130 flex!

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/s-foam-130-flex-foam-1392

This is what I used for my super squishy and very flexible Togruta headpieces 🙂

It’s a bit tricky when you don’t have a perfect mold that includes headcast but this time I do sort of! This will make the foam fill in the space perfectly 🙂 I can keep my molds!!!

 

Also this is not what I used but could be ideal for paint:

http://www.barnesnz.co.nz/polyurethane/sc92-single-component-coating-1291

All the latex. For real this time!

I am ready to wear the daggy clothing with all the latex marks today, also to then work on my Cleves frock indoors, or tool the rest of Ahsoka’s armour. Whichever second activity is chosen will be down to working in the room or away from any potential to bump into the latex.

Yes I have done so.

Yes you can readily see this effect on the carpet out there.

They are carpet tiles. Well continuous lengths but the same stuff. So… will try to avoid any slumping anyway and also to cunningly cut the foam to allow for easy fitting once made up.

Shaak Ti?

So having practiced so many times with my Ahsoka molds, and previous methods with Shaak Ti.. I may actually be able to use what I have learnt with Ahsoka to use my Shaak Ti molds again 🙂

(Photo above: metal shelves with cement molds of different sizes, bottom shelf supporting in particular the two part molds for Ahsoka Tano and Shaak Ti creature effects.)

This is very exciting. To find a method that creates a predictable latex cast, that is durable and light. I think I may need to do a video guide as if takes both hands, well full body, and is so messy it would ruin my camera equipment to try and get photos.

But it winds up cheaper than a purely slush cast piece with about the same flex and is lighter. I still need to test if the support I used for Shaak Ti will work with this new method, but I do have hope.

(photo above: two part molds resting against a white wall and on grass with exposed topsoil.)

The cast has also not pulled from the molds as much as previous which means it is likely to shrink less. While these molds were relatively easy to work with it may prove more troublesome with the Shaak Ti molds as there are more ridges. But these are exactly why I want to keep using this method- the ridges tend to cause latex to clump into deeper parts of the mold and crete weak thin casts over the higher parts.

Tomorrow I will test it.

This method may also work for Turian jaws and mask 🙂 Right now the flat back cast for the jaws work very nicely.

 

ahsoka progress

I was very worried as my latex thickener took a while to arrive and my molds wound up soaking too long. But it’s all good 🙂 But the latex I had was certainly bad. Not so bad that it couldn’t be rescued but rescuing requires a lot of work 🙂

Thickener and coloidal silica 🙂 I probably should have grabbed microballoons, explained later 🙂

I used up as much of my latex as I could- two bottles of thickener will turn 2.5L of latex into a very thick consistancy, but it does still run, not immediately but over a few hours.

What have I done here you may ask. Well here is the answer 🙂

Self supporting latex

In order to have self supporting horns but an adjustable thickness tentacle latex layer I first lay up a thick layer of the thickened latex (for this also with some added silica to limit warping) then  a layer of peeled foam in 5mm or 10mm thicknesses soaked in a latex and water mix. I push the foam into the latex just enough to adhere but leave a layer of just latex to create a skin to the foam.

This is tricky! If the environment is too warm the latex well turn tacky while working with it causing deformities. This has been my fifth run and it’s the first time this hasn’t happened because it was much cooler yesterday than any other day this summer.

The peeled foam is very soft, very soft and not at all self supporting alone. In fact its use is to pad and create a soft layer.

But once soaked in latex and left to cure it becomes fairly rigid. The cells become rigid but the air pockets remain.

The foam also tends to not pull away from the walls of the mold while the latex is curing. This makes it much easier to be able to control warping of large pieces like this. It also reduces weight and can be stitched then glued/latexed to hide the join. It is also possible to pare back the foam with a knife to thin it out for the tentacles.

This is sort of a reverse industry standard method of skinning foam for creature effects. Having a mold means I control the skin texture a lot more but means working a bit blind in terms of being able to know exactly how thick that skin is.

This standard method is how I make my lekku in general. And as I work to finish this piece I’ll be able to share tips on how to do that- it still requires skill to avoid limiting stretch of the foam and adding  weight! I also want to update my Rachi Lekku and Talon lekku 🙂