Pattern plates

They are done! The scanner is unplugged so the caster can use the plug so I’ll start scanning as soon as I am ready.

I just went for my daily walk so am stretching while I decide on the order these will be printed.

Six skirt patterns, four bodices, several sleeves from a simple block. Only haven’t managed to work in my Anna Meyer block which is sleeve with no shoulder strap. But I can get that.

magaret audley in high resolution

While a lovely friend was working out her costume inspiration, I went looking for decent resolution of images and woah! This did not come up in my google search, and it should, but rather another portrait with a link to the other works by the artist.

https://www.google.com/culturalinstitute/beta/asset/margaret-duchess-of-norfolk/bAHhU8C_AFAgZw

Maraget Audley, Hans Eworth

I think most historic costumers know this one already, this though is delicious in being able to see stitches. It’s actrually inspiring me to get back to Elizabethan as I could transfer that design almost exactly.

However I already have the Worth skirt I have had to set aside for hand health- not aside aside. Working out a safe way to store it between stitching. Also it is ivory silk satin. I have a dendency to get so far and then get something on projects made of pale silk. And my skin snags it, so basically still working out a Me safe storage and working space.

But it is inspiring, If not as a direct copy at least to enjoy my own tasks. I find that by imagining working with the materials above that I can imagine the embrodery as a privilege to work- being able to handle the fabric and threads.

So I just need to apply that inspiration to what I already have. For I have some lovely, lovely fabric and threads to work with as well.

 

In fact even with my mix of threads for my pink Cleves dress I enjoyed sewing the gown at the event. I may have to undo some (the bodice is a smidge too big- very stretchy fabric- and my sleeves should really go in the other way around.

 

rock the frock-Alexandra Fedorovna COurt gown

While looking for WIP photos I’m also finding inspiration photos and now I am really inspired by a few pearled garments.

Finding the original source of this is proving very difficult (the photo owner is in there but where she posted it is not) but there is a great interactive exhibit! Huge photos definitely worth the effort of being stuck in the site and no static pages.

http://www.hermitage.guide/costume/costume1.html#

Right click to translate to English (or your own) click Catalogue> Women’s Suit> Court Costume then the dress is after the royal blue velvet. I’ve grabbed info for my favourites after sharing info about this gown ūüôā

Dress by the court ceremonial of the Empress Alexandra Fedorovna
Russia, St. Petersburg. The end of XIX Рbeginning of XX century.
Workshop O. N. Bulbenkova

‚ąô Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
‚ąô Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, wife of Nicholas II

artificial pearls, silk threads.
Leaf: back length 39.0;
skirt: the length is 103.0;
Train:length 300,0
On the strap of the corsage printed with gold Workshop mark: Mrs. OLGA DRESS
S.-Petersburg Sink No. 8
Post. in 1941 from the GME; earlier: in the dressing room of the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna in the Winter Palace of
Inv.¬†‚ĄĖ –≠–†–Ę-13146 –į-–≤

Silver eye, silver thread, silk, beat,  sequins, wire, fluff, lace; embroidery Leaf:
back length 33.0; skirt: the length of 169.0;
Train:length 340,0
On the strap of the corsage printed with gold Workshop mark: Mrs. OLGA DRESS

Dress of the court ceremonial Grand Duchess Maria Feodorovna
Russia (?). 1860s

‚ąô Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
‚ąô Empress Maria Feodorovna, the wife of Alexander III

Silk, tulle, metallic thread, artificial flowers
Leaf: back length 32.0; skirt: length 140,0;

length 320,0
Post. in 1941 from the GME
Inv.¬†‚ĄĖ ERT-8612 –į-–≤

 

Dress the court ceremonial mourning dowager Empress Maria Fedorovna
Russia, St. Petersburg. 1894
Workshop of A. Ivanova

‚ąô Court costume of the XVIII – early XX century
‚ąô Empress Maria Feodorovna, the wife of Alexander III

Silk crepe with embossed texture, satin, lace, silk ribbons.
Leaf: back length 37.0; skirt: the length of 180,0; loop: length 440,0

At the corsage printed with gold workshop brand: FASHION AND DRESSES / AT T. IVANOVOY / S. PETERBURGH
Post. in 1941 from the GME; earlier: in the Anichkov Palace
inv.¬†‚ĄĖ ERT-9429 –į-–≤

Dress the court ceremonial
Russia, St. Petersburg. The end of XIX Рbeginning of XX century.
Workshop of Ivanovs

Velvet, satin, metal thread, beat, gimp, silver plates; embroidery

Leaf: back length 34,0; skirt: the length is 150,0; loop:length 330.0
On the tape of the corsage printed with gold the workshop brand: on the sides Рan image of two exhibition medals, a shield of arms
and an inscription – Supplier / courtyard of His
Imperial Majesty Ivanovs / Fashion
and dresses. Saint-Petersburg / Fontanka
at Chernyshova Bridge # 68-7, sq. M. 16. Phone K-2234
Post. in 1941 from the GME
Inv.¬†‚ĄĖ –≠–†–Ę-13132 –į-–≤

 

 

but yes, photo sorting because there is quite a backlog of photos to sort and lots more to try and locate.

Extant Gowns I adore

 

Mantua, V&A Museum, London

  • Place of origin: ¬†Spitalfields (textile, weaving) England (mantua, sewing)
  • Date:¬†ca. 1720 (weaving) ¬†1720-1730 (sewing)
  • Artist/Maker:¬†Unknown
  • Materials and Techniques:¬†Silk, silk thread, silver-gilt thread; hand-woven brocading, hand-sewn.
  • Museum number:¬†T.88 to C-1978
  • Gallery location:¬†In Storage
  • Interactive full views

I am not sure if the petticoat and front are original, if they are it’s a lovely example of a non matching set. ¬†There are a handful of these early mantua that are extant. The very delicate colour choices of pale blue and silver would have made this stand out in candlelight.

finally printing Mcdowell!

I have foam core board to make a test run of the McDowll cutting system ūüôā So I may be able to get a third tool printed off tonight too ūüôā

Oky, since posting that I actually have. My firt prints were twice the size, then 1/4.. now I think I have it. It looks right. I have them in light card and paper for cardstock so I’ll cut the card tonight and see if it looks right!

This system is mentioned in Cutting a Fashionable Fit and there have been a few examples up for sale:

OMG!!!!! $US80?!?!?! That’s less than my ink. So and an ebay search…..

Making drafting tools!

I decided that I have wanted an authentic pattern drafting machine but I’ll never be able to afford one, so I’ve got a nice clear copy of a few originals and now with the power of image editing software it’s time to make some.

Step one, figure out where to scale.

Done and done ūüôā By the end of the day there should be a copy ready for any other drafting nerds ūüôā

Also these might just be inspiring enough to hunt down originals ūüôā

Historic bug again :)

I have two massive research projects to share (Spanish tailoring and Westfalen clothing) but kind of fell into a trap of trying to do it all at once because this one little thing here has huge consequences here, and another over here, and then I got super bogged down in trying to support information when I have the support documents in hand so it’s not like I’m citing anything I haven’t actually read. I can use footnotes and quote!

So now I am happy shifting the focus of both to be really easily published and shared.

I’ve taken 10 years after first making gear to make sure everything I have read in English is backed up. In part due to books being published and not digitised so I had to have used book searches. Not easy from NZ until the last few years!

BUT I HAVE SO MUCH EXCITEMENT!

 

Teaching my Victorian workshops has really helped me figure out how I want to share all my research. So far yes, skirts then sleeves has been a big help in understanding the principles of fabric engineering (I am an engineer at heart- I don’t just see in 3D I can visualise forces and densities and I just don’t have the jargon to really explain. But I do read papers on textiles and even found one trying to predict properties of bias for different fabrics.) We’re just going a little faster and in shorter bursts than I’d like. But I also now have sliding galleries to be able to use in my online tutorials so those big blocks of images can be made easier to follow.

So I’ll try the same thing for the Spanish stuff as it’s really about the use of the pattern elements. Much easier, and I’m just rethinking from resources every could have access too. The other stuff is a mix. So really need my academic hat put on.

Skirt workshop this weekend

My workshop this weekend is on skirts. And drapery. Two polar opposites in terms of making but work together.

So I can do a conservative skirt, fully gathered/pleated (to waistband/yoke), very gored. And work through the waterfall drapery and then basically quote from resources at the time- you can’t work out a drapery pattern by looking at the finished garment in the 1880s. And it’s fairly true. So I’m collecting all the extant and contemporary ones I can find to put them into some sort of easy to visualise system.

Currently though printing All The Patterns so as to have them ready for the other workshops too ūüôā

Amazon references

Been fighting a few updating issues with my PC so getting to my blog has been a struggle for about a week. In that time I’ve been trying to grab all the amazonian behind the scenes of Wonder Woman as the costumes really fascinate me! There is not only a clear aesthetic but there seem to be rules about what can be mixed and matched.

I just need a good connection again to be able to get all those references in one place.

In the meantime I have two places for putting the images in easy to find locations:

(I’m sorry for anyone who doesn’t have a pinterest account)

And specifically on The Replica Prop Forum
Home DC Costumes and Props > Wonder Woman= Amazons of all kinds > Wonder Woman= Amazons of all kinds

So far spotted three kinds of chestplate, three kinds of torso support, one kind of skirt, two groin plate patterns. On top of the totally different Queen’s Guard.

Now that my connection seems a little better (woo) I’ll see if I can sort them out.