Monthly Archives: July 2016

Emerged slightly scathed

Emerged or ErmErGerded… out the other side of the inventory.

Reading it aloud to a not quite native speaker and both winding up not sure what language we are reading?

Anyway. I have colours, fabrics, trimming, and garments. I have included men’s and children’s gear as they are all over the house and help look for alternative spelling- or as I call it “the writer just gave up”.

That said who needs a hundred yards of linen for (specifically) small headcoverings? Apparently she did. She had more for other cloths. But mainly hats. Have I mentioned she had a lot of hats?

She had a lot of hats. Twenty in one room. They were sort of all over the house.

The dude making the inventory clearly had enough after room six and there is heaps of shorthand and he literally writes “not worth noting.” In an inventory that was pretty darn precise for the first three pages or so.

 

 

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Ensconced in old archives

Well virtually. I have been a bit absent for the last two days with other business too but I have simply been trying to edit some documents into being useable. And searchable. So far I have stripped footnotes from the body, then tidied each (no words cut in half for one) and now have stripped all notes from the main text and am going through line by line, item by item.

It’s difficult as the original writer was totally over it all. Apparently it took twelve days to document the contents of this house and I can see how. Also, my word I keep seeing this as a “haus” by which they mean mansion.

We are talking rich rich rich.

Rich.

And it’s amazing! I’m totally changing my presentation direction!

But why was everything stashed in weird places??? This is what I am next highlighting in the text- what things are in and where.

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I have too much to say

I am working my way, figure by figure, of my research project and I am finding myself thinking I need to simplify. One of the journals I want to try and publish the work has a limit of 9000 words and I think I am going to reach that just in this chapter.

But then I am also very excited as it is such a big project and I can live up to the title of the folder I have all of this stored in which is “Complete Survey.”

I think if I limit my first article to a handful of sources I can then reach out to other institutes to see if I can use other less accessible resources.

This will have to wait for a day regardless as I will need to recover from a sudden onset of a nasty headache- migraine? Not sure but I threw triple therapy at it.

 

In fact yes. I think I have the perfect frame. So I need to really get cracking!

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Further down the rabbit hole

http://www.british-history.ac.uk/search/series/letters-papers-hen8

I may have a bit of a bug about how Anne of Cleves has been portrayed in history. It never sat well with me, that it was all about her not being pretty, especially when I started reading conspiracy theories on how Holbein fudged his art to flatter her. If you can get hold of it Mary Saaler’s book is fantastic (oh links! buy from the publisher- http://www.oxbowbooks.com/oxbow/anne-of-cleves.html or ILL- http://www.worldcat.org/title/anne-of-cleves-fourth-wife-of-henry-viii/oclc/247680248) and I have  whole lot more to say about the portraits she so wonderfully shared! It’s the first book to actually go to original sources and include her life in England as a whole. Even her not so easy relationship with the people who worked with her later in life.

I have only seen it mentioned in passing that maybe the marriage was inconvenient. What is really clear from the papers is just how inconvenient it got literally as Anne was travelling from her (protestant lands smushed between the lands of the HRE and the Burgundians) across the Netherlands (Catholic Burgundian-Hapburg lands).

At the time the marriage was sensible- convenient- but Cleve-Julich-berg was only just merged and by the end of the century was really falling apart financially. And that was what upset “friends” of the King of England. And yeah, just read the letters from Dec 1539 to Jan 1540! They get really nasty!

R. O. 750. CHRISTOPHER CHAITOUR.
“The declaration and whole truth of such things and matters which as (sic) are laid against me, Christopher Chaitour.

Cray then asked what news from beyond sea. “Then I showed as the said Hilyard (wo be to him !) showed me on the Thursday afore St. Nicholas’ Day last,” viz., when he enquired of Hilyard whether the Queen was come over, Hilyard said he had heard she would not come till all the abbeys in England were pulled down, and that caused the commissioners to make such haste before Christmas. He said also that the Emperor was come to France and should marry the French king’s daughter, and the duke of Orleans should marry the duchess of Milan; and all this was by the bp. of Rome’s means, and they were all confederate together. “As for the Scottish king,” he said, “he is always the French king’s man in all that he may.”

He added secretly, “We shall all be undone, for we have no help now but of the duke of Clefe, and they are so poor they cannot help us.” He said also that the duke of Cleves had sent to the Emperor to ask leave for the queen of England that shall be to pass through his dominions, and the Emperor had replied “he would nothing at his request, but for his most dear and loving cousin’s sake, the King of England, she should pass,” and commanded all his subjects “to away [t] of hyr grace as though she were the [empe]ryc[e].”

2. Cray’s Account.

And now ye see he hath brought it to pass that the King shall marry one (fn. 4) of his own sort, and that she will not come into England as long as there is one abbey standing, and for this cause so great haste is made to have them down so shortly as ye see.” “Jesus,” quod I, “what will be the end of these matters ?” “I cannot tell,” quod he, “but this is certain, that the Emperor is comen down into France, and by the mediation of the bp. of Rome there is a perfect peace and unity established between him and the French king, and he shall marry the French king’s daughter, and the duke of Orleans shall marry the duchess of Milan, and so now these three, the bp. of Rome, the French king, and the Emperor, be all one, and the king of Scots is the French king’s man; and so we be left alone, and nobody with us but these Germans, a sort of beggarly knaves, and they are able to do nothing. And as for our own commons, their hearts be not so firm nor steadfast to the King but for fear.”

http://www.british-history.ac.uk/letters-papers-hen8/vol14/no2/pp274-303

Both men refer to Hilliard as the source, a man who had fled to Scotland, and was already considered a traitor. It was a dangerous time for anyone, so exactly how true any of this actually was is unclear. Whether Hilliard was fabricating the story or Cray and Chaitour were, it’s hard to believe it as being true. There is only one account that suggests she would push her will over others, and that was to basically get to know the nobles who had come from England to meet her.

677. EARL OF SOUTHAMPTON and NIC. WOTTON to HENRY VIII.

She asked Southampton to come to supper and bring with him some noble folks to sit with her after the manner of her country. Told her it was not the usage of our country so to do, but complied on her repeating her request.

http://www.british-history.ac.uk/letters-papers-hen8/vol14/no2/pp243-255

What is true is that while Anne was traveling so to was the Hapsburg Emperor traveling through France, an ally of England at the time.

[London,] 17 Jan.:—Since he wrote on the 5th of the arrival of the new Queen at Greenwich, there has come a personage calling himself ambassador of the Landgrave of Hesse, who, with this duke of Bavaria, the chancellor of Saxony and some lords of Cleves who came with the “said” lady, has been summoned to Cromwell’s house, where, with the principal councillors of this King, they have divers times discussed their secret affairs. Finally, upon a report that the Emperor was bringing down from Italy into France certain Italians and Spaniards of his garrison there, and because the Landgrave’s ambassador brought news that the Lutherans on the one side, and the bishops and church party of Germany on the other were in arms against each other, the German lords decided to leave at once, under pretext that the safe conduct they have from the Emperor would expire in a few days and they might be shut in here if war broke out, for they think the Emperor and their ecclesiastical adversaries are working to no other end than to attack them, which is very likely if the above news are true.

http://www.british-history.ac.uk/letters-papers-hen8/vol15/pp1-19

 

Even the abmassador from France could only say that Anne looked over 30 (good lord, really? no?) that she was was tall and thin, but that she was self assured and had wit.

23. Marillac to Montmorency.

[London] 5 Jan.:—Has received the Constable’s letters of 26 Dec. Wrote on the 24th, on the 27th (by the gentleman of the chamber of the King of Scotland) and on the 31st ult. The Queen of England has arrived who, according to some who saw her close, is not so young as was expected, nor so beautiful as every one affirmed. She is tall and very assured in carriage and countenance, showing that in her the turn and vivacity of wit supplies the place of beauty. She brings from her brother’s country 12 or 15 damsels inferior in beauty even to their mistress and dressed so heavily and unbecomingly that they would almost be thought ugly even if they were beautiful.

http://www.british-history.ac.uk/letters-papers-hen8/vol15/pp1-19

22. Marillac to Francis I.

[London] 5 Jan.
She looks about 30 years of age, tall and thin, of medium beauty, and of very assured and resolute countenance. She brought 12 or 15 ladies of honour clothed like herself—a thing which looks strange to many. An ambassador of Saxony (fn. 13) is in her company, probably to conclude treaties between his master and this King; for now the affairs of Cleves and Saxony, with all their League, and of this King will be one. But we shall see what is determined in the coming Parliament which will begin, they say, in Lent, and provide for several great affairs, especially for a great supply of money which this King means to demand. His ministers say he can get 1,000,000 crs. without difficulty.

http://www.british-history.ac.uk/letters-papers-hen8/vol15/pp1-19

I am still making my way through all the papers. There is obviously a lot and with variation of spelling and a mix of direct transcriptions and edited text it can be hard to find letters or papers relating directly to her. But in reading everything the context of her arrival makes so much more sense!

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Oh wow!

I have now basically started a dissertation instead of a simple online project. However I will be able to offer it for free as the institutions that hold the most important artworks all allow for reproduction and some transformation (cropping) which makes it infinitely easier to create a file that is easy to read and simply laid out!

When I began this project it was  before a ruling on access to artworks at museums, and what rights there are to photos of paintings, and so I had to put all my images as links in an appendix! I can now put cropped images in the body of my text as well as have a very well rounded bibliography and photo credit appendix!

The abundance of information I can now access is incredible compared to when I began my various websites!

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Typing day!

I need to walk as well but today I am about to give myself an even bigger headache that I have been avoiding for many years.

I’m about to start typing yet more 16thC words with follow a few rules but all in the one document. Yes one thing called three or four different things in the span of one document.

I’m trying to work out if it was weariness as it is 20 pages of text and was apparently in a hurry.

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I think I have it!

I think I found just where the actual term used was transcribed in to something fairly useless as a search term 🙂

My head hurts a heck of a lot, but I think I have it 🙂

*falls*

I may have created a JSTOR account to be at this point 🙂

And I still have to work out if the lack of a reference here supports this.

YUSSS!!! WOOOT!! I am indeed using the same resources:) Just did a quick scan and yep, woohoo!!!!

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Research rabbit hole

I was supposed to sew today, but I had a small little detour from saving files to a new ssd, to finding some documentation to realising I didn’t have it any more, to hunting it down and finally to a bit of a virtual hoard.

But sadly the archives I need to access just keep pulling error messages.

But I have enough information now to find the sources for some 20thC texts that were missing references.

So now I am a few hours behind on current projects but feeling much more confident about some research I have ready to go back up online.

It’s now a few hours later and I did get the photos and I did do some pinning. Further to the above I have had to go through all my Cleves images, and hunt out partially labeled photos, and finally unpicked the edges of my gown and put in a narrow edging of the same red velveteen. Because I was annoyed by it not looking quite right.

Slight nightmare. But I did save a heck of a lot of fabric by piecing so… it’s period practice? By not extending the velveteen in to the guarding I saved a meter or so possibly more, which for the era would have been a huge saving of money. Stitchers were apprentices so their work was less valued than the fabric.

But I now have a nice lineage for terminology again and with added benefit of being able to link to references! Yaaas!

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Why I am obsessed with the Maleficent Christening Gown

I thought I’d take a bit more time to explain just why the gown made me take a breath and stop and be able to see right into the heart of Maleficent even before we heard her words.

 

We’ll start with the court, as they represent the human world, and it so mimics parts of our own. The people are all wearing heavy fabrics. Fabrics that are not only heavy but stiff. They don’t drape, they hang. Even with veiled headdresses the overall appearance is of people wearing things.

They are dressed to please King Stephan and his own clothing reflects this, and further. He wear fabric that looks like rock, or steel, there is a flat watery pattern to the fabric but over all he looks hewn like the stone of the castle.

Screenshot 2016-07-23 17.18.04 Screenshot 2016-07-23 17.26.25

Screenshot 2016-07-23 17.18.31

The colours are cold, he is surrounded and enveloped by his own fear and need to protect himself from Maleficent. He has waited years for her to truly confront him.

More than that the way he is dressed is how we perceive kings and queens of the past to be dressed, to impress but impractically and in these very heavy robes.

 

And then there is Maleficent.

And what she wears is a huge statement to Stephan and the people in the room.

Maleficent was not invited, she is an outsider. And she made sure to not just let everyone know she knows that, but she does so using their fashion, what is familiar to them, and totally makes it her own.

Screenshot 2016-07-23 17.49.05 Screenshot 2016-07-23 17.49.12

When we see her in juxtaposition with the crowds, even the visitors from other lands, we see horned headdresses. Hers are real. She has them on display, but literally sheathed. She is letting everyone know she has her power restrained right now but that she is powerful.

The surface texture and colour of her fabric could blend in with the crowd. Even her low V neck and train. But again they are all, odd, and weird when seen in the court.

Screenshot 2016-07-23 17.52.02

Maleficent’s gown is out of time and out of place. It could only have been made by a master in bias cutting. This one difference allows her gown to flow like liquid, her sleeves to billow and ripple, and finally for her train to shudder gently as she walks.

So her gown mimics the ripples, and the cold, of Stephan’s garments but her gown feels alive, an extension of her. Again this is because her gown uses extremely modern draping. While the rest of the cast could have had their garments drafted and fitted, this gown had to be made on a form, and more than than that several times as the bias of fabric alters the hang and fit of a garment permanently.

What is so wonderful about Maleficent is just how modern her costuming is, it both feels familiar as we are now so used to bias cutting, and yet distant as many of her garments feel like they could be from the Golden Era of Hollywood.

This is where the designer and the technicians work together to realise an idea, to make it feel part of a world, to use the physical properties of the materials to create something unreal.

http://www.scientific.net/AMR.627.585

The Application of Bias Cut in Clothing Design

Ching Hui Lin, Chin Mei Lin

Bias cut is one of techniques in clothing construction. The 45°gyrosigma produce tensile elasticity to have the custom curve and outfit more graceful, elegant and lively.

 

http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/ArticleFullRecord.jsp?cn=BSMHBM_2012_v20n4_594

Development of the Bias-Cut Dress Pattern Making Method by Applying Fabric Draping Ratio
Park, Chan-Ho; Chun, Jong-Suk
This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body.

 

http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/ArticleFullRecord.jsp?cn=BSHHBV_1991_v17_209

A study on the constructive principle and Techniques of Vionnet’s works
Chun, Hei-Jung
The purpose of this study was to identify the constructive principle and techniques of Vionnet’s works. According to analysis of Vionnets works, it was found that Vionnet conceived of the human body as a continuous shaping of a cylinder. Vionnet’s drapery denied the planner presumption of woman and gave real three-dimension to form and to fashion. T

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fly by health post

I have managed to update my site this week to the point I feel reasonably happy leaving it alone for a few days.

The portfolio aspect is in place, and I now have a better means of adding photographic progress.

I have though totally depleted my health resources recently with the sculpting-a-thon. It was only a few days but I may be feeling the effects for a few months.

I just peeled myself from the floor to type so I think I do need another day of sleep.

The spoon analogy is less useful, this is more like malware, on a pre-pay plan. I am really good at balancing my budget but this is unpredictable and even though I am being very careful and monitoring regularly sometimes it just defies all predictions. Not only does it do harm but it takes up valuable resources needed elsewhere. It actively does harm and it prevents useful apps from running properly.

And the cost of going over those limits is exponentially worse than on a normal plan. On a plan that allows for more data than you can ever use you may not even notice. But on pre-pay you have to plan and count for every single scrap. But you can’t switch plans now because you can’t afford to.

That is what a long term disease is like. Malware. And like malware everyone assumes you have to be involved in dangerous habits to get it. Nope.

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