Hi 🙂 And thank you 🙂
I’m actually a very long time sewer 🙂 And patterning is what I love the most. Long before I actually sewed it I even patterned the red dress from Dracula based only on what was available at the time (even the few exhibit photos aren’t completely illuminating (but helped solve the fastening issues 🙂
Anyway so I usually start with looking at basic shapes and all possible layer and fastening options. And compare that to what I have made or even worn before. From there I either take fabric and pin to the form (direct drape) or lay out and use a flat pattern from my personal pieces (I have a nice darted bodice with works well for both fitted and semi fitted items) and then start drawing all over to find the new seam placements. I di try and make them as functional as possible. So if there is piping I will cut the fabric and insert a casing with piping in it not just make a tuck- piping is a way of sabilising a seam so if it is there, that is what it is supposed to be fore.
Also I have a stupid amount of historical and modern pattern systems in my brain to pull from when something doesn’t make sense. I highly recommend having as vast a library to pull information from as possible. I also have books on arms and armour, as well as modern and historic figurative art.
Sorry I am about to pass out in to bed after a day of sewing but I hope that helped somewhat:)