1840-1910

drafting manual

How could I not realise the craft day at Howick is actually this weekend!

D’oh!

Today I ironed the hems for the draperies and sewed up the bodice seams. Oh boy does that fabric look smart sewn into a tailored style! I’m sure it must have originally been some sort of suiting. I’m sure it’s rayon though (not sure what process it was) as it got very weak when wet (I put a peg through it) but rather strong when dry. It wrinkles like rayon as well. We have some bleach, I’ll test it tomorrow.

I’m also pleased to report the pattern does indeed seem to work. I put on a very silly 1″ seam allowance just in case I needed to let it out, but it seems to be fine.

I also pinned the sleeves together after cutting out sleeve linings from calico.

For those curious:
The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker
Author: Davis, Jeanette E.
Print Source: The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker
Davis, Jeanette E.
Cassell Publ. Co.,
New York :
[c1894].

This is the book I used for the pattern drafting and information on the different techniques used by seamstresses to finish their garments. Lovely information on the origin of feather boning, how to smooth wool over a bodice lining to get the right fit and where to pad and how.
I’m concidering this as a test run before going really mad with the Worth gown for authentic patterning and construction.

Speakign of the Worth Gown. I will need all new undergarments!

Chemise with narrow straps, and a lace edging all around the neck and armholes.
Bustle.
petticoat with room for a bustle but gored to fit under the slightly flared skirt.

And then stockings, I think they’ll have to be yellow. If I can find some silk liner socks to go over the knee I’ll be happy enough.
Also some shoes. I don’t think my black suede shoes are going to cut it…